How long does food stay in a dog’s stomach

How long does food stay in a dog’s stomach?

Though dogs are omnivores, they are opportunistic ones. That means that while they can eat almost anything, their digestive systems can’t break down and utilize everything. Animals like humans or cows, to name two, have GI tracts made to process plant matter. As a result, their intestines are much longer and more drawn out than those of dogs. Since cows depend on vegetable matter, they even get extra compartments in their stomach, and can regurgitate food to chew and digest it fully.

A dog’s digestive system, depending more on meat proteins, is much more efficient. Depending on its digestibility, food can stay in a dog’s stomach much longer than either a human or a cow. If the meal is not strictly meat, comprising a variety of vegetable, grains and proteins, it will have vacated the stomach completely in 12 hours after eating. Compare that to four to five hours in a normal adult human.

Where does digestion actually take place?

As you may have gleaned from tracing food’s intricate journey from the food bowl in your kitchen to the poop bag in the dog park, the multiple processes of canine digestion means that it does not happen in one spot. From the moment comestibles come in contact with teeth and saliva in the mouth, digestion is happening.

A dog’s digestive system is just that: a system, and digestion takes place at every point along the course. Food is disassembled in a variety of ways, physically and nutritionally, from the mouth to the stomach. The majority of its conversion into absorbable nutrients happens in the small intestine, and digestion is only complete when your dog assumes the familiar position for excreting waste.

How long does it take for a dog to digest food?

Finally, the question that got us started. Unfortunately, there’s no set answer! So many variables are involved, that even in a perfectly healthy dog, the time to digest a single meal can be dramatically different. Does your dog drink enough water? That has an effect on digestion time as well. Large dog breeds take significantly longer to digest food than small ones.

Is your dog sedentary, spending most of the day on the couch? Does the dog get a couple of walks a day? Exercise has a definite impact on motility, or the way that the muscles of the digestive system propel food through the process. Total time from entry to exit depends on a wide range of factors, from the size of the dog to the quality of the food. Wet food takes less time to digest than dry kibble. Speaking very broadly, operating at optimum efficiency, a dog can process a can of wet food in as few as four hours, while the same amount of dry food can take eight hours to make the same journey!

Dog Feeding Schedule: How Many Times a Day Should I Feed My Dog? 2/2

Dog Feeding Schedule for Puppies

Housetraining: With puppies, there is housetraining to consider in your dog feeding schedule. When beginning housetraining, you or someone you trust, such as a dog sitter, really needs to be on hand frequently, so you can catch your pup before or in the act and rush him outside. Older puppies can go between three to four hours between elimination. A sample schedule would be:



Outside upon waking.
Outside after breakfast.
Outside around noon after second feeding.
Outside around 4:00 p.m.
Outside after dinner.
Outside before bed.

Food: A puppy will ideally eat three times a day so schedule in a feeding around noon. Get a dog sitter to help if needed.

Sleep: A puppy sleeps more than an adult dog, averaging about 16 hours a day. But some will sleep for up to 20 hours!

Activity: A puppy will have bursts of energy and then flop down where he is and sleep. Try to get your puppy out as much as you can, starting with short walks and building up to 20 minutes.

Dog Feeding Schedule for Senior Dogs

Food: A good dog feeding schedule for senior dogs is feeding twice a day. Feed senior dogs smaller amounts since their activity is limited.

Water: Older dogs may need more water than their younger counterparts.

Sleep: A senior dog will sleep more than an active adult dog, on average 16 to 18 hours a day. Just like humans, the older a dog gets, the more his needs resemble that of a puppy.

Activity: It’s important for a senior dog to still get walks and mild activity. Ideally, you, or a sitter, could take your dog out three or four times a day for shorter walks. Avoid excessive activity and any rough play such as at dog parks.

Dog Feeding Schedule for Active Breeds

There are a few modifications on a dog feeding schedule for active dog breeds such as the Border Collie, the Vizsla and any Terrier. Sleep for these dogs is often less than an average breed and you will find they are usually running around even when dozing. It can help to feed these breeds three times a day because their metabolisms are higher.

Dog Feeding Schedule for Sedentary Breeds

Breeds that are very large such as the Mastiff and the Great Dane tend to sleep more than an average sized dog. Some of the large breeds, such as the Greyhound and many of the hounds, do as well. A sample dog feeding schedule is also often different with these types of dogs being fed only once a day since they are not burning off as many calories.

Every dog is unique and you may have to alter your dog’s feeding schedule depending on your dog’s activity level. You also may need to adjust your dog’s schedule to meet yours.

Dog Feeding Schedule: How Many Times a Day Should I Feed My Dog? 1/2

Have you ever thought, “How often should I feed my dog?” Dogs thrive on routine and, though they do not keep track of time like we do, their circadian rhythm, or internal clock, makes it possible for them to tell when it’s close to the time for a routine task. Whether you’ve just adopted a dog (congrats!) or are wondering about how much to truly feed your pup, we bet you’ve thought, “How many times a day should a dog eat?” at some point. We’ve compiled a dog feeding schedule for adult dogs, puppies, senior dogs, active breeds and sedentary breeds, configured around each dog’s play, activity, sleep and water schedules.



Remember: Any dog feeding schedule is just a suggestion. The best way to plan a dog feeding schedule is to consult with a vet, who can configure a course of action that’s customized to your dog’s needs.


Sample Dog Feeding Schedule of an Average Day with an Adult Dog


Food: Most adult dogs should eat twice a day. This keeps their metabolism stable and aids in digestion. You’ll find they quickly catch on to when feeding time is. A sample dog feeding schedule for adult dogs would be:


7:00 a.m. – Breakfast
6:00 p.m. – Dinner

Water: The next step after establishing a good dog feeding schedule is a having a schedule for offering fresh water to your dog. In general, it is best to leave a fresh bowl of water out for your dog every morning and every evening. Dogs should always have clean water after any activity. If you’re working on housetraining or have a dog who overdrinks, you can schedule the amount and times you provide it.

But watch your dog carefully and, if he seems to be thirsty, increase the amount. A sample schedule for monitoring water would be:


7:00 a.m. – Clean and fill bowl half-way.
Noon – Rinse out and refill half-way.
6:00 p.m. – Rinse and fill half-way.
Bedtime – Clean and fill bowl about 1/4 of the way.

Sleep: An average dog sleeps about 14 hours a day. Unlike humans, they sleep for shorter times more frequently. A dog’s REM cycle is more active than a human’s and may explain the phenomenon of “chasing in their sleep.” If your dog sleeps more than 16 hours a day, it is wise to check for any illness. By scheduling his activities throughout the day, you will naturally create a good sleeping routine.

Play: Play is imperative to keep a dog’s skills honed, to provide stimulation and just to have fun. Play can mean a game of fetch with you, a board game where your dog has to do tricks to earn a turn, a doggie play date, or even interactive toys when you are away. Try to get two play sessions in a day. A sample schedule would be:

8:00 a.m. – Spend at least 15 minutes playing with your dog

4:00 p.m. or Right after work – Schedule a play date or try something creative like a game of hide and seek.

Activity: Activity is imperative for a dog’s mental and physical health. Ideally, a dog should be walked twice a day for 30 minutes. An extra walk does no harm and, in fact, will benefit you both. In our hectic society, however, this can be tough, so consider enlisting the help of a dog walker. Also keep in mind activities other than walking such as the dog park. A sample schedule would be:

6:30 a.m. – Walk your dog before his breakfast
Noon – Walk your dog (this is where a dog walker could be helpful)
5:00 p.m. – Walk your dog before his dinner


Together Time: A dog feeding schedule isn’t the only thing you should establish. Together time is a bonding experience for you and your dog. This is the easiest thing to schedule as it can be on the couch while watching T.V. or outside reading a book, or on the bed at the end of the night. The key is to focus on your dog and pet and massage him. Dogs love a light massage and many are happy with your foot stroking their back. Even just sitting touching your dog is a bonding activity.

Basics of the canine digestive system in Dogs

Part 1: From mouth to stomach

The front end of a dog’s digestive system encompasses the mouth, esophagus, stomach and small intestine. Dog digestion begins almost immediately with saliva in the mouth. You may have wondered why dog tongues are so slobbery. Since they spend less time chewing food than humans tend to, all of that saliva kickstarts the process of breaking down and coating food particles for smoother passage through the esophagus. The esophagus is heavily muscled, actively pushing food into the stomach.

Part 2: A fantastic journey through the small intestine

A dog’s stomach is a super-acidic environment, which is useful for opportunistic omnivores, helping them more easily digest things like bone and raw meat. Yes! Dogs can digest bones! Here, solid food is rendered into a substance called chyme, which is made up of food, water, and acid. All food — from your Michelin 3-star-rated fine cuisine, to your dog’s canned chunks or dry kibble — ends up as this highly acidic gloop. As this chyme proceeds into the small intestine, the real work of digestion — the isolation of nutrients that can be used by the body— is done.

There are three parts of food’s journey through the small intestine. In the first part, the duodenum, chyme is treated with enzymes and hormones from the liver and pancreas, which reduce the acid level of the chyme. The gloop is now prepared to have the rest of its nutrients extracted and absorbed. This happens in the second part of the small intestine, which is called the jejunum. This part of a dog’s small intestine is basically covered in little probes, which, like fly paper, pick up and absorb useful nutrients into the bloodstream.

Part 3: The large intestine and waste removal

The final part of the small intestine is the ileum, which absorbs whatever nutrients remain. By this point, the once-acidic chyme gloop is now a sort of thicker pasty substance. You’d be surprised how little of the food you or your dog eats is actually used by your body. Did you ever wonder why your dog’s digestive system produces so much poop? It’s because the actual nutrients — proteins, vitamins, fats and so on — that your dog’s body can utilize are miniscule in proportion to the physical volume of most dog food.

How long is this part of a dog’s digestive system? It varies by size. If you stretched out a dog’s small intestine, it would be nearly three times as long as the dog. The back end of a dog’s GI tract is fairly short by comparison, just over a foot long, give or take, depending on the dog. Its primary components are the large intestine and the anus. The large intestine is basically a water remover and garbage compactor. Having spent the first half of its journey being mashed up, dissolved and sifted, any parts of a dog’s meal that cannot be used is treated by bacteria, and reconstituted into a solid package we call poop.

Burning Questions #Article 13

How Much Water Should a Dog Drink a Day?

You can still leave water out in a bowl for your dog but you need to ration it during the day. This means several refills so someone needs to be home to oblige.

Automate It: The problem with most automatic water dispensers is they fill up whenever the water gets low so you can’t control the amount. One option is to use an automatic feeder instead, the kind that opens separate compartments at specified times. (ALSO READ : https://animalix9.blogspot.com/2018/08/how-to-wash-cat.html)

What’s Up Doc: For nighttime control, try using a rabbit water feeder in your dog’s crate.

Clean Water For Your Dog

To help insure that the water supply for both humans and canines is protected, you can do one simple action — clean up after your dog. And by providing a healthy diet and the right amount of clean water to your pooch, you can prevent illness and promote health. For as Mark Twain says, “Water, taken in moderation, cannot hurt anybody.”

Portuguese Water Dog

Portuguese Water Dogs are high energy dogs with a lot of enthusiasm. They are outgoing, curious, friendly, and highly intelligent. There’s a lot of dog inside that moderately sized, curl-covered body. Porties love to play in water and will take all the exercise you can give them.

When the First Family welcomed Bo, the Portuguese Water Dog, to the White House, they put the spotlight on this rare breed of water-loving canine. Fortunately, the Portie likes attention almost as much as he likes playing with children and swimming. An important consideration before diving in to ownership of a Portuguese Water Dog: If you don’t want a dog who prefers to be wet, this isn’t the dog for you. Caveats aside, this curly mop of good natured canine could be just the ticket for your family.
The breed was developed in Portugal, where the breed served as the fisherman’s equivalent of a farmer’s right-hand man. They retrieved nets, delivered messages, and pretty much did anything that was asked of them with enthusiasm and style. Few people need that kind of water-logged helper anymore, so the Portie’s smarts and enthusiasm have been put to other uses. One of the most notable: When San Francisco opened its new bayside ballpark for the Giants, a team of Porties went to work retrieving home run balls out of the water. The dogs, known as the Baseball Aquatic Retrieval Korps, or BARK, quickly became an attraction on their own.
But the Portie doesn’t need paid work; he’ll happily do most anything you want. The dogs do very well at obedience, agility, and other canine sports, as well as more people-based activities such as boating, hiking, and helping the kids chase a soccer ball. The problem won’t be finding things for your dog to do, but rather finding time and energy to keep your dog busy. Don’t bring a Portie into your family unless you have plenty of both to spare.

What about allergies? The jury’s still out. The Portie, like many dogs with coats like the Poodle, may be better tolerated by people with allergies, especially mild ones. Do understand, though, that there’s truly no such thing as a dog that will not cause any allergies. Expect to brush the dog thoroughly at least weekly and have him professionally clipped every other month.
The Portie is a wonderful family dog and typically great with children, although all child-pet interaction should be supervised by adults. Also, because the dog can be rambunctious and some fall under the “big dog” category, they may be too much for toddlers.
Give your Portie plenty of exercise and he’ll be happy in an apartment, a small suburban home, or a vast country estate. Just don’t expect him to handle being alone in the backyard. If you get a Portuguese Water Dog, make him a member of your family, not an outdoor dog. 

Other Quick Facts

• Portuguese Water Dogs have a wavy to curly coat that comes in a number of colors with or without white markings. Black and brown dogs are the most common; white is the least common.
• The Portuguese Water Dog can sport a “lion” clip with a bare rear end or remain fully coated. The profuse coat can be curly or wavy.
• A Portie’s curly coat, somewhat more loosely coiled than a Poodle’s, doesn’t shed much, but left untrimmed, will continue to grow indefinitely.

The History of the Portuguese Water Dog

The Portuguese Water Dog has been a coastal retriever in fishing-mad Portugal for centuries. Portuguese fishermen ranged far out from their homeland, all the way to the Grand Banks cod fishery off the coast of Newfoundland, and their water-loving dogs went with them. They were important members of the crew, helping to pull in nets and deliver items between boats. The Poodle and the PWD may have a common ancestor, and the PWD may have played a role in the development of the Irish Water Spaniel.

The breed’s importance in the fishing industry declined over the years, and the dogs became quite rare. The first members of the breed were brought to the United States in 1958, but it wasn’t until 1972 that the Portuguese Water Dog Club of America was formed. The American Kennel Club recognized the breed in 1984. Today the PWD ranks 55th among the breeds registered by the AKC, up from 60th in 2009. No doubt the breed’s popularity received a boost from the presence of Bo Obama in the White House.


Portuguese Water Dog Temperament and Personality

There are two outstanding characteristics of the Portuguese Water Dog: energy and intelligence. The Portie is an agile breed that thrives on any activity that challenges him physically and mentally. In addition, the Portie is a friendly family dog that enjoys looking after his human pack. In fact, the Portie needs to be with a family. He doesn’t do well if left in a kennel or left alone at home for long periods of time. He thrives in the midst of an active family.
The Portie is a good companion for children, but don’t be surprised if he outplays the kids. His natural exuberance may cause him to play a little too rough, so he must be taught early on to play nicely and keep his mouth to himself.
Training should begin right away for the Portie puppy. Even at 8 weeks old, he is capable of learning good manners. Never wait until he is 6 months old to begin training. If possible, get him into puppy kindergarten class by the time he is 10 to 12 weeks old, and socialize, socialize, socialize. However, be aware that many puppy training classes require certain vaccines (like kennel cough) to be up to date, and many veterinarians recommend limited exposure to other dogs and public places until puppy vaccines (including rabies, distemper and parvovirus) have been completed. In lieu of formal training, you can begin training your puppy at home and socializing him among family and friends until puppy vaccines are completed.These experiences as a young dog will help him grow into a sensible adult dog.
Talk with a reputable, experienced Portuguese Water Dog breeder. Describe exactly what you’re looking for in a canine companion, and ask for assistance in selecting a puppy. Breeders see the puppies daily and can make uncannily accurate recommendations once they know something about your lifestyle and personality. Choose a puppy whose parents have nice personalities and who has been well socialized by the breeder from birth.
Vigorous exercise is a must for the Portie, such as daily romps, canine sports (agility and obedience), and swimming. The Portie has a special affinity for swimming due to his heritage as a working water dog, and swimming is a great way for him to burn off some energy.



What You Need To Know About Portuguese Water Dog Health

All dogs have the potential to develop genetic health problems, just as all people have the potential to inherit a particular disease. Run, don’t walk, from any breeder who does not offer a health guarantee on puppies, who tells you that the breed is 100 percent healthy and has no known problems, or who tells you that her puppies are isolated from the main part of the household for health reasons. A reputable breeder will be honest and open about health problems in the breed and the incidence with which they occur in her lines. Portuguese Water Dogs are at risk of hip dysplasia, a crippling disorder of the hip socket that can require costly surgery to treat and often leaves the dog stricken with arthritis later in life.
All dogs have the potential to develop genetic health problems, just as all people have the potential to inherit a particular disease. Run, don’t walk, from any breeder who does not offer a health guarantee on puppies, who tells you that the breed is 100 percent healthy and has no known problems, or who tells you that her puppies are isolated from the main part of the household for health reasons. A reputable breeder will be honest and open about health problems in the breed and the incidence with which they occur in her lines. Portuguese Water Dogs are at risk of hip dysplasia, a crippling disorder of the hip socket that can require costly surgery to treat and often leaves the dog stricken with arthritis later in life. 
Additionally, the breed can be affected by a number of genetic eye abnormalities. One eye problem, microphthalmia, can be diagnosed with an eye exam, so have your puppy examined for this condition if his breeder hasn’t already done so. These results should also be reported to the Canine Eye Registration Foundation (CERF). Another eye disease that can affect PWDs, progressive retinal atrophy (PRA), has a genetic screening test available through Optigen, and the puppy’s parents should have been tested. Testing forms and additional information are found on the Portugese Water Dog Club of America (PWDCA) website.

A rare condition known as GM1 gangliosidosis, which causes a fatal buildup of toxins in the nerve cells of puppies, can occur in the Portuguese Water Dog. Through the determined efforts of the breed club, a DNA test was developed, and no affected puppies have been born for several years. Under no circumstances should you obtain a puppy from a breeder who cannot provide you with written documentation of his parents’ GM1 gangliosidosis status.

Other diseases that can affect the breed and for which the PWDCA recommends genetic screening include heart and thyroid problems, as well as a condition known as sebaceous adenitis, an inflammation of the sebaceous glands that leads to hair loss and skin disease. Your puppy’s breeder should be willing — in fact eager — to go over the health histories of his parents and their close relatives and discuss how prevalent health concerns are in his lines.

The Portuguese Water Dog Club of America is a member of the Canine Health Information Center, a health database. For a Portie to become CHIC-certified, a breeder must submit a hip evaluation from the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals (OFA), an eye clearance from CERF, with annual eye exams recommended until the dog is 10 years old, a DNA test result for PRA from an approved laboratory, and OFA registry of a DNA test for GM1 gangliosidosis. Optional tests include OFA cardiac, thyroid, and sebaceous adenitis evaluations, and a University of Pennsylvania evaluation for juvenile dilated cardiomyopathy.

Breeders must agree to have all test results, positive or negative, published in the CHIC database. A dog need not receive good or even passing scores on the evaluations to obtain a CHIC number, so CHIC registration alone is not proof of soundness or absence of disease, but all test results are posted on the CHIC website and can be accessed by anyone who wants to check the health of a puppy’s parents.

Remember that after you’ve taken a new puppy into your home, you have the power to protect him from one of the most common health problems: obesity. Keeping a Portie from getting portly is one of the easiest ways to extend his life. Make the most of your preventive abilities to help ensure a healthier dog for life.


The Basics of Portuguese Water Dog Grooming

With his handsome and abundant coat, the grooming requirements of the Portuguese Water Dog are above average. Regular grooming is essential to keep his coat in good condition, including brushing, bathing, haircut, nail trim, and ear cleaning. You can let the coat grow long or clip it short. Expect to groom (do it yourself or better yet, hire a professional groomer) your dog every six to eight weeks, especially if you wish to keep the coat trimmed short. Regular brushing several times a week with a pin or slicker brush is necessary if you let the coat grow out. Regular tooth brushing with a soft toothbrush and doggie toothpaste keep the teeth and gums healthy.

The rest is basic care. Trim the nails as needed, usually every week or two. Brush the teeth frequently with a vet-approved pet toothpaste for good overall health and fresh breath.

THIS POST IS A TRIBUTE TO SIMBA FROM PORTUGAL AND HIS FRIENDS AND FAMILY

The first thing people notice about the Rhodesian Ridgeback is usually the characteristic ridge that runs down his spine and gives him his name. The ridge reveals part of his heritage, which is a mix of European hunting dogs and African dogs who had the distinctive ridge.

They also notice his strong athleticism, noble carriage, and the intelligence in his eyes. The history of the breed only adds to his allure; owners are often asked, "Did they really hunt 

lions?"The answer is yes, the Ridgeback was developed in Africa to corner and hold big game prey, such as lions, bears, and boar. Today, the Rhodesian Ridgeback is still used for hunting, and some members of the breed have even adapted to pointing and retrieving. The Rhodesian Ridgeback can also be found competing in various dog sports, including agility, lure coursing, obedience, and tracking, and he's a good hiking or jogging companion.
As a pup, the Rhodesian Ridgeback is active and exuberant, but he matures into a dog with moderate exercise needs. Give him a vigorous walk or game of fetch a couple of times a day, plus a chance to run in a safely fenced area a couple of times a week, and he'll be satisfied — at least in terms of physical exercise. This intelligent breed also needs mental stimulation: a bored Rhodesian Ridgeback is a destructive Rhodesian Ridgeback.
The Rhodesian Ridgeback is dignified and reserved toward strangers. With his family, he's a quiet, gentle companion, one who's able and willing to defend his home and people if the need arises.
Because of his size, intelligence, and power, he's not the breed for everyone. First-time or timid dog owners may find him to be much more than a handful. People who want an outgoing dog who will love everyone should keep looking. But if you are looking for a strong, confident dog, a dog who encompasses gentleness, hardheadedness, and a sense of humor in a shorthaired, easy-care package, the Rhodesian Ridgeback may be the perfect match.

The Rhodesian Ridgeback, once known as the African Lion Hound, was developed in South Africa by Boer farmers.
The farmers needed a versatile hunting dog who could withstand the extreme temperatures and terrain of the bush, survive when water rations were low, protect property, and be a companion to the entire family.
They started by crossing dogs they'd brought from Europe — such as Great Danes, Mastiffs,Greyhounds, and Bloodhounds — with a half-wild native dog kept by the Khoikhoi, a pastoral people. This dog had a distinctive ridge of hair along its back, and breeders noticed that crosses who had this ridge tended to be excellent hunters.
At first, the Boers primarily used the dogs to flush partridge or bring down a wounded buck. When big-game hunting became popular, they found that the dogs were well suited for accompanying them when they hunted lions from horseback. The dogs would hold the lion at bay until the hunters arrived.
A hunter named Cornelius von Rooyen began a breeding program in what was then known as Rhodesia (now Zimbabwe). A breed standard — a written description of what the breed should look and act like — was set down in 1922, and it's changed little since then. In 1924, the Rhodesian Ridgeback was officially accepted by the South African Kennel Union.
Some Rhodesian Ridgebacks may have made it to the United States as early as 1911, but it wasn't until after World War II that large numbers were imported to the U.S., Britain, and Canada. The first Rhodesian Ridgeback registered by the American Kennel Club (AKC) was Tchaika of Redhouse, in 1955. The AKC recognized the breed that same year.
Today, the Rhodesian Ridgeback ranks 54th in popularity among the 155 breeds and varieties recognized by the AKC. The Ridgeback is quite popular in South Africa, where he first began his journey as a breed.

The Rhodesian Ridgeback is independent and intelligent, a combination that can be entertaining, frustrating, and rewarding, all in one. It's important to begin training early and to be firm — but not harsh — and consistent.Because of his hunting roots, the Rhodesian Ridgeback has a high prey drive. That means stray cats and other small furry animals aren't safe in your yard, and it also means your yard should be securely fenced, to prevent him from going hunting on his own.
Exuberant and active in puppyhood, he matures into a quiet dog with moderate exercise needs. The Ridgeback is protective of his home and a discriminating barker who can be counted on to alert you to trouble. He's reserved with strangers but gentle and affectionate with family members.
Like every dog, Rhodesian Ridgebacks need early socialization — exposure to many different people, sights, sounds, and experiences — when they're young. Socialization helps ensure that your Ridgeback puppy grows up to be a well-rounded dog.