The Highlander Cat

A substantial cat, the Highlander brings together the sweeping grace of the curl eared cats, and the massive size of the lynx. Completely domestic, this massive feline averages a weight of fourteen pounds and is a masterful combination of strength and graceful beauty. The head should be an inverted pear shape with medium to large ears that are firm at the base and flexible at the tips. They should be in a relaxed curl of no more than 90 degrees. Ear furnishings and tufts are ideal. Eyes should be medium to large and wide set, resembling a flattened oval in shape. The body is medium to large in size, rectangular in shape and athletic in appearance. Legs should be medium in length, with back legs longer than front. Feet should be medium to large and round with large knuckles; long coats should have toe tufts. The tail should be short and thick, a minimum of one inch long in adults but not extending past the hock. The coat can be short or long and comes in four colors: solid, tortie, tabby, or silver/smoke.

Despite their regal appearance, Highlanders are definitely the court jesters. This is a highly active breed that loves to play chase. Affectionate, they will be first to greet you at the door and will happily show off to visitors. Relatively quiet, this is a soft-voiced animal with few needs and lots of love.

This is a low maintenance breed of cat. General care should be taken when purchasing any kitten from a breeder to check for hereditary diseases and disorders and potential owners should have any kitten examined by their vet before purchasing. Regular grooming is recommended for long haired cats. There are no special nutritional needs.

This is a new breed to appear on the cat fancy scene. Breed development began in 2004 and it's starting name was the Highland Lynx, a name that easily described the size of the cat that was desired. The breed has been developed from the large domestic gene pool, and though the ears resemble those of the American Curl, the Highlander does not receive its ear curl from that same gene. The Highlander is a TICA recognized breed and was accepted for competition in the New Breed class in May of 2008.

The Exotic Cat

The Exotic is called to be a harmonious example of balance and refinement. The huge head should be balanced squarely on a thick neck. The skull of the Exotic should be smooth with snub nose and chin vertically aligned and a muzzle that smoothes evenly into full cheeks. The breed should have a stocky and steady body type which lays low on the legs and has a well-rounded midsection and level back. The midsection should be muscular. Legs should be short, thick, and strong with large, round and firm paws. Toes should be carried closed. The tail, like the in the Persian, should be short but proportional and carried without a curve.

There are 88 colors of Exotics, most stemming from the wide variety of Persian colors and patterns. There are no color classifications for the breed; the main difference between Persian coats and Exotic coats is the length. The coat of the Exotic should be dense, plush, and soft, accentuating the rounded shape of the cat and giving it a teddy-bear like appearance. The eye color of the cat should match the coat type, for example a breed standard white Exotic should have deep blue or copper eyes; in the case of an odd-eyed cat, the deepness of color must match in both eyes.

Considered the 'lazy man's' Persian, the Exotic offers the beautiful face and colors of the Persian without the necessary and excessive amounts of grooming. Though it is a hybrid of the American or Domestic Shorthair and the Persian, the Exotic maintains a good number of Persian qualities. The exotic is a quiet cat, rarely vocal. They are easy going and love attention, begging not with their voices but with an intense stare. They love to be kissed and cuddled, more a 'baby' than a 'buddy'. Exotics will sit in your lap, on your shoulder and even hug you when hugged. They are known to sleep with their owners unless preferring a cooler location than the bed. Perhaps because of the breeding with shorthairs, Exotics love to play, and will ponder how to retrieve a toy that has been put away out of reach. They love the simple pleasures in life and will spend hours watching water drip from a faucet or playing with a paper ball. Best kept indoors, the Exotic excellent at adapting to a changing environment and can be introduced to a new home at any age. It is a sweet and loving cat and easily deserves to be called the "best of both worlds".

All in all, the Exotic is a lovely cat, allowing those with busy lives to have the beauty of a Persian in a cat that doesn't require the necessary amounts of grooming.

The breed is relatively new and had its start as an illegal attempt by breeders of American or Domestic shorthairs to breed in the silver and blue colors found in Persians to create a more beautiful short hair. Rather than allow what had become a beautiful hybrid to perish in obscurity, CFA Judge Jane Martinke fought for a new breed to be added to the registries and the Exotic was born. The breed quickly achieved championship status in 1967, though some breeders still sought to breed outside the American Shorthair- Persian combination. Any other pedigree is now disallowed, all exotics must be the product of Persian- American Shorthair heritage.

Cymric Cat

Identical in all but coat length to the Manx, the Cymric and Manx have been combined into one category by some feline associations. A study in circles, the Cymric resembles a bowling ball that is medium in size. The Cymric takes up to five years to reach full maturity. Once maturity is reached, the males will weigh between ten and twelve pounds and the females between eight and ten. They lack a tail and ideally have a rounded rump with a small dimple in place of the tail. The hind legs should be longer than the front with rounded, medium sized feet. Ears are wide at the base and set wide on a rounded head. Eyes should be rounded, large angled and slightly lifted at the outer edge. Coat should be silky, well- padded and thick. The Cymric is allowed to come in any color just like the lovable Manx. There should be tufts of fur between the toes, britches should be easily visible and the ears should be fully furnished in the Cymric but not in the Manx.

Gentle giants and extremely playful, these excellent jumpers are highly intelligent and wonderful family pets. They are very curious and will use their excellent jumping ability to propel themselves to the highest of corners to investigate something that may have attracted their attention. They have been known to use door handles, fetch toys and even bury a toy that they find themselves particularly attached to. Though soft voiced they can be quite talkative and have an enchanting trilling way of speaking. Very people oriented, the Manx will bond hard and fast to those they call their own making re-homing difficult. When introduced properly they will get along easily with other pets and children.

Because this is a tailless breed, there is an absence of vertebrae and with this absence there is always the concern of injury. Owners should always be sure to support the hind quarters of a Cymric or Manx when carrying their cat to prevent placing extra strain on the shortened spine. In addition, children and adults should both be careful not to poke or prod the missing tail area as this can cause extreme pain- the nerve endings in the spines of these animals are not only present, they are exposed and unprotected. Owners should be careful to discuss any genetic spinal disorders with the breeder and be sure to have their kitten examined by a vet before purchase. Other care for the Cymric is fairly easy, they enjoy a careful brushing to help keep mats under control and do not have any dietary requirements.

The Cymric and the Manx share a long and colorful history, with tales of their missing tails even including a story that Noah shut the door of the Ark on their tails and cut them off. They were first discovered on the Isle of Man in a feline population that was believed to have descended from cats aboard ships from nearby England and Wales. Eventually, a genetic mutation occurred within the population and the kittens began to be born without tails. Because the Isle of Man is fairly small and isolated, in-breeding led to this becoming a common trait amongst the cats and by 1750 they were known as 'stubbins'. The first painting of a tail-less cat was created in 1810 and by the late 1800's they were ready to be seen at the begin of the cat fancy era. The short hair versions were the first to be shown and to gain success, with the long-haired Cymric receiving recognition in later years.

The French Chartreux

Don’t mistake Chartreux cats for British Shorthairs. With their plush blue-gray fur and round faces, the two cats look a lot alike.

The French Chartreux is one of the oldest domestic cat breeds. The exact origins of the breed are somewhat uncertain. There are a number of theories as to its origins, most of them suggesting the breed came from the middle east, Russia, Syria, Siberia or Northern Europe.A type of wool called Pile de Chartreux was imported to France from Spain and it is suggested the cat derived its name from this.Whatever its origins, the Chartreux became of interest to French breeders in the 1920’s and in 1928 they wrote a breed standard. The Leger sisters of Guerveur Cattery who lived on the island Bell-Ile began selectively breeding these cats. The foundation pair being a male called Coquito and a female named Mariquire. However, the second world war put a stop to this and decimated Chartreux numbers. By the end of the war, the breed barely existed, which was common among other breeds of cat also.The Chartreux arrived in the USA in 1970, imported by John and Helen Gamon. Some of these cats coming from Guerveur lines. US breeders worked hard to keep Chartreux lines pure and due to their hard work, Chartreux lines in the US are some of the purest in the world. The breed was awarded Championship status with the CFA in 1987.
The Chartreux remains unchanged from that of the champion Mignonne de Guerveur a female Chartreux named the “most beautiful cat” in a 1931 Paris show. This is quite unusual when you look at how other breeds of cat have changed in the past 50 or so years.
A unique naming system is used with the Chartreux where each year a specific letter of the alphabet is used. This runs on a 20-year cycle, as the letters K, Q, W, X, Y, and Z are omitted. So, if your cat is born in an F year, only F names are used. Felix, Fred, Freya etc. This makes it easy to know the exact age of the cat by the letter its name starts with.

MORE ABOUT THIS BREED


Don’t get a Chartreux if you don’t want a cat on your lap every time you sit down. The smiling Chartreux is highly affectionate and will follow his people from room to room. With his sweet, personable nature, he gets along well with other pets and is suited to homes with children who will pet him gently. The Chartreux is quiet, some rarely making a sound, but don’t let him fool you. He has a quick brain and is capable of figuring out how to get into cabinets or out of louvered windows to go exploring.
Like most cats, the Chartreux loves to climb, and he has also been known to perform acrobatic feats as he chases a fishing pole toy. And if you have mice? Well, they’ll be packing their bags if a Chartreux moves in. These cats have a reputation as excellent mousers when given the opportunity.
The Chartreux coat is easy to groom with twice weekly brushing. You’ll need to brush him more often in the spring when he sheds his winter coat. Trim the nails as needed.
According to legend, the Carthusian monks selectively bred Chartreux cats so they wouldn’t interrupt the monks’ meditation. This explanation for the felines’ muted meow is likely more fictional than fact-based. However, the Chartreux isknown for being a quiet breed. They rarely make noise, and when they do, they chirp and trill.

Stop Your Cat From Biting Your Ankles

Does this describe your home? You get up out of bed and start walking to the bathroom, only to have your ankles become the target of a cat attack. Does your cat hide under the bed under the moment when she sees your bare feet hit the floor and then she sinks her teeth or claws into your flesh? Perhaps your cat waits around the corner for that moment when you walk down the hallway and then she launches into a perfectly timed ankle attack. Is there a solution? Yes.

Ankle Attraction

The reason your cat targets your ankles is because they’re a moving target and if there’s no other option for play or stimulation, kitty will focus on what is currently available. The prey-drive is triggered by objects moving across or away from the cat’s visual field. If your cat isn’t getting adequate stimulation and playtime opportunities through interactive play therapy or adequate environmental enrichment then she’s going to take it upon herself to find a substitute. Unfortunately, that substitute is a painful one to the human family member.

Increase the Fun Factor

In order to stop the ankle attacks you need to provide the cat with a better option and that comes in the form of playtime opportunities with appropriate toys. You’ll do this in two ways. First, set up a schedule of doing interactive play therapy on a daily basis. Use a fishing pole-type toy so you can mimic the movements of prey. The fishing pole toy also puts a distance between your skin and the cat’s teeth so it teaches the cat what is an acceptable target. Since cats would have several opportunities to hunt in an outdoor setting, schedule at least two interactive play sessions per day.

Next on the list is to increase the fun factor in the overall environment. This will enable your cat to have opportunities for playtime even when you aren’t home. Use puzzle feeders for your cat so she’ll have lots of chances to “work” for food. Puzzle feeders provide cats with a natural progression of the hunt and the reward. You can also rotate your cat’s regular toys so they don’t become boring. Take a long look at the types of solo toys you’ve bought and see if they could use some improvement. A fuzzy ball is boring when it’s sitting in the toy basket but if you place it inside of an open paper bag that on its side on the floor then you’ve increased the fun factor.

There are many ways to increase environmental enrichment in your home so that your ankles are no longer the most appealing target. Use your imagination and create homemade puzzles and toys. Set up a cat tree by a window. Install a bird feeder outside. Use a “think like a cat” approach to looking at the environment from a cat’s point of view. Is it a boring environment? If so, then it’s time to roll up your sleeves and add some fun into your cat’s life.

How to Handle an Ankle Attack

If your cat has his paws wrapped around your ankle and his teeth are sinking into your skin, what’s the best thing to do? One thing you shouldn’t do is run or pull away because that will often only result in the cat biting down harder. Prey moves away so don’t act like prey when you’re bitten. Instead, confuse your cat by gently pushing toward her. This will often cause her to release her grasp because no self-respecting prey willingly heads toward the predator. Once the cat releases her grasp, stay still and ignore her. She’ll soon learn that biting flesh results in an immediate end to the fun.

How #Cats Love

Cat Purrs

Cats Love with Purrs. Her purrs can mean a variety of things, from delight to expressions of concern. And kitty purrs range from soft and subtle to Mack-truck loud. When your cat purrs in your presence, you can be sure she’s expressing her love for you.

Cat Rolling

Cats Love with Rolling. When kitty throws himself on the ground at your feet, and rolls around, consider this a loving greeting and a solicitation for attention. Presenting the tummy in this fashion places the cat in a vulnerable posture. So cats generally reserve the rolling around for people they truly love.

Cat Bunting

Cats Love with Bunting. When a cat cheek-rubs you, head-bumps your face, or pushes against you, he leaves his scented signature. These behaviors, termed bunting, are expressions of affection cats display to other cats, dogs-and their most favorite people.

Cat Scratching

Cats Love with Scratching. Just as with the spraying, cat scratching leaves both scented and visual marks of ownership. Pay attention to where your cat scratches the most. The areas most important to kitty often are related to those places associated with the owner, like a favorite chair where you sit.

Cat Kneading

Cats Love with Kneading. Kneading behaviors—front paw treading on soft surfaces—hearken back to kittenhood. Kitten paws knead against the mother cat’s breasts to induce milk to be released. Adult cats continue the behavior when they’re feeling most relaxed and content and loved, and that’s often when being petted on the owner’s lap. Kneading is an obvious expression of adoration.

Cat Gifting

Cats Love with Gifting. Mighty hunter cats that catch everything from toys to bugs, mice or frogs, often share the bounty with those they love. Kitties who present you with this bounty deserve praise. They wouldn’t bring these special gifts if they didn’t love you.

Cat Playing

Cats Love with Playing. Kittens play out of pure enjoyment, and many never outgrow playtime. Some cats may actually control the interaction of petting by moving just out of reach—so YOU must go to THEM. Their most favorite playmate typically is a trusted, beloved companion.

Cat Sleeping

Cats Love with Sleeping. As sleep champs, felines typically sleep up to 16 hours a day. Because they are most vulnerable during sleep, the place your cat chooses to snooze must be a secure and trusted location. There is no greater loving compliment than a cat choosing your lap for a favorite sleep spot.

Cat Eyes

Cats Love with their Eyes. A kitty’s eyes are proportionately very large—if human’s eyes were the same proportion, our eyes would be eight inches across! As such, cat eyes are important assets for survival, yet extremely vulnerable. Cats that place their faces and wide open eyes near a human express great trust and love.

Cat Tails

Cats Love with their Tails. In a similar fashion, the “elevator butt” pose invites you to give special attention. Simply scratch her above the tail. Cats also signal their love when they approach you with the tail held straight up, and the end slightly tipped over. Kittens use this to greet their mother—and adult cats continue to treat their favorite humans like a beloved mom, with tails flagged high in respect.

Cat Meowing

Cats Love with Meowing. Cats rarely meow at other cats. Kitty uses these vocalizations specifically to interact with her people. Do you make a point to talk with those you dislike? Neither do cats! Even when kitty pesters you with lots of meows, she’s interacting with you out of love.

Cat Grooming

Cats Love with Grooming. Cats spend an enormous amount of time self-grooming. They also groom each other, but shared grooming behaviors only happen between friendly cats. Kitties that groom their human by licking your skin or hair, or even nibbling or sucking on your clothing, indicates great affection. This spreads familiar scent and helps mark you as an important part of her family group.

Cat Spraying

Cats Love with Spraying. Say it ain’t so! But it’s true—if your cat has decided to baptize your bed or other belongings with urine, you should consider it a back-handed compliment. Cats use their own scent to calm themselves down. Kitties feeling upset over separation anxiety or other issues often target areas that smell the most like their beloved owners…such as the bed.

Cat Butts

Cats Love with their Butts. This is another “back handed compliment” that cats offer to only their most trusted, beloved people. Because kitties identify each other by scent, butt-sniffing is the equivalent to a very personal hand shake. When your cat jumps on your lap and presents her tail in your face, the invitation is obvious—not that you need to sniff.

How to Wash a Cat

Pre-Bath Advice

The key to successful cat-bathing is preparation. You must make certain you have all necessary items at your fingertips.

THIS IS A TWO PERSON JOB. You will need to keep at least one hand on your cat AT ALL TIMES, so it will be difficult to complete the process without a helper.

Ideally, this process should be done in a double sink, or a single sink that has a spray attachment. If you do not have either a double sink or a single sink with a spray attachment, then consider using two large Tupperware containers, each one being about the size of your sink.

Line the floor around you with old towels; this will be a messy process and you don’t want to make things more difficult by slipping on a wet floor.

If your cat has claws, it is recommended that you wear long sleeves. Also, if your cat is prone to biting, consider wearing a pair of sturdy gloves.

It is NOT recommended that you wash your cat in the tub. Generally, cats are afraid of water and to them, the tub looks like an ocean of certain death.


Washing the Cat


What You Will Need:

Lots of old towels
Double sink or single sink with spray attachment
Plug for the sink
Rubber mat for the sink
Two cups
Soft washcloth
Cat shampoo
Cotton balls
1 or more dirty cats
Bandages and antiseptic (for you, afterwards)


Washing that Kitty:

Prepare your work area; arrange towels on the floor and place all your gear within easy arms reach.

Place the rubber mat in the sink and fill with about three inches of body-temperature water (just enough to come up to your cat’s belly. DO NOT overfill! Cats are very sensitive to water temperature, so it is important that you check the temperature, using the same method you would for a baby bottle: pour a bit on the underside of your wrist—it should feel neither hot nor cold.

Put some shampoo in one of the cups and fill with the water from the sink (this will prevent the cat from being shocked by a sudden dose of cold shampoo).

If you are using a double sink, fill the other side with body-temperature water, relatively the same temperature as the first side.

Pick up your cat, stroking him and talking to him soothingly so that he doesn’t become too suspicious over what is about to happen.

Making sure you have a firm hold on your cat (this may require gripping the scruff of his neck) lower him gently but quickly into the side of the sink with the 3-inches of water.

In all likelihood, YOUR CAT WILL IMMEDIATELY TRY TO GET OUT. All kidding aside, if he has claws, this can be a very dangerous situation. A panicked cat can do some serious damage. Keep a firm hold on your cat at all times. This is why it is important for another person to assist you.

If your cat is not too stressed, place a small cotton ball in each ear. Cats can get ear infections if their ears get wet. If you are unable to get the cotton balls in, or if your cat repeatedly shakes them out, make sure you’re extra careful not to get the ears wet.

With the empty cup, gently pour the sink water onto your cat.

Pour the diluted shampoo solution on him and massage into his fur. NEVER put shampoo by the face, eyes or ears.

Wet the washcloth in the clean sink water and gently run it over his snout and face. Again, do not use shampoo on your cat’s face.

If you are using the double sink, using cupfuls of clean water, rinse the shampoo thoroughly from your cat, draining the water if it becomes too deep. If you are using a spray attachment, check the water temperature, and make sure the pressure is not too great. Place the nozzle close to your cat’s fur so he doesn’t get the “spray” sensation. It is very important that you rinse ALL the shampoo from your cat—their skin can be very sensitive and shampoo residue will make them susceptible to skin infections and irritations.

Once your cat has been completely rinsed, lift him out of the sink using a soft towel. Try to keep him wrapped in the towel, blotting excess water (DO NOT RUB with the towel as this can be very irritating to an already edgy cat). Repeat several times with dry towels.

Once you have blotted away the excess water, keep your kitty in a quiet, warm, draft-free place until he is completely dry and relaxed once more.

If you’ve gotten any scratches in the process, clean them thoroughly with soap and water, treat them with antiseptic and bandage them. Check any scratches or bites frequently for signs of infection.

Jannet Osborn

Puppy Mills 2/3

A puppymill is generally considered to be a large-scale dog breeding operation that wholesales dogs to retail establishments, or to middlemen who then sell to retail establishments. Puppymills keep animals in small cages (similar to large chicken crates) for most of their natural lives. The bitches are bred on their first heat (which usually occurs around 6 months), and on every heat thereafter, until they die naturally (or are diposed of). Conditions at puppymills vary, although even in the best of circumstances, these establishments are abusive to dogs.
Puppymills are dirty, smelly, and house dogs in cramped quarters. Because of the conditions, the dogs may fight each other, develop neurotic behavior (such as obsessive licking, jumping, spinning, cage pacing, etc), and become susceptible to illness and injury. Oftentimes, dogs with wounds aquired during kennel fights or under other circumstances, will be left untreated. The cages in which the dogs are kept have wire bottoms. The dogs are forced to spend their entire lives in these cages, with little or no human contact, exercise,health care, and training.

Mills house a large number of breeding dogs, sometimes numbering well into the hundreds. The only job of these animals is to produce puppies. The puppies are in turn sold directly to pet shops or to middlemen--called brokers--across the country. The puppies are shipped in cramped, crowded trucks, at a very young age. Many times puppies become sick or injured during the trek to their destination or even die. Damaged/ill puppies are disposed of. The ones who are lucky enough to survive the ordeal end up at the pet shops, or in the hands of brokers who then sell the animals to pet shops.Puppymilling is big business in the United States, with annual grosses amounting to millions. The United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) inspects and licenses mills, but their standards for licensing are too low for the tastes of many knowledgeable dog people, including veterinarians, behaviorists, and trainers. In addition, many times violations of code are ignored, and disciplinary action is rarely taken against those mill operators who are deemed to be in violation of code. Dead, dying, and sick dogs, filthy grounds, and cramped cages may be found even at those mills that are USDA licensed. The mills do not get inspected enough, nor are millers given incentive to clean up their act. The mills that are not licensed by the USDA are even worse, as hard to imagine as that may be.

Where do the puppymill pups end up ?

Puppymill pups ultimately end up in pet shops. Those cute, sweet, innocent puppies you see in the window had their beginnings in a mill, probably in a situation much like what is described above. Most likely, their parents are still locked in cramped, dirty crates, forced to produce still more dogs for the industry.
Pet shops claim that their dogs come from breeders, that their animals are purchased from USDA licensed producers, and that the dogs are AKC registered (or other dog registries, some not reputable). The effectiveness of these claims depends largely upon the naivete' of the general public. Ask if the animals come from mills, and you will get an emphatic, "No!". But this of course is not true. The employees of these stores are coached on what to say to customers, and many times are not even aware of the truth behind the puppies they sell.

Puppy Mills 1/3

Most people don’t want to support animal cruelty; that's a given. In the United States, people have particularly strong feelings about cruelty towards companion animals who many consider to be integral parts of their family. Yet, despite the desire to protect our animals, many people still unwittingly support puppy mills.

What is a puppy mill?

A puppy mill is a dog-breeding facility with the primary goal of making money. To maximize profits, some breeders make dogs suffer in deplorable conditions. The puppies bred at these facilities are then either shipped to pet stores around the country, or sold directly through newspaper and online ads to the public.
Once the puppies leave the mills, they are cleaned up and put up for sale at pet stores for anywhere from hundreds to thousands of dollars. The breeding dogs aren’t nearly as lucky. They are kept at the puppy mill to have litter after litter, often living in small cages and lacking clean water, regular veterinary care and socialization. Some mills may have 10 breeding dogs while others may have 1,000, according to the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals, better known as the ASPCA.

And because of these inhumane conditions, the ASPCA warns that puppy mill dogs have commonly been found to have health issues like epilepsy, heart disease, kidney disease, musculoskeletal disorders, endocrine disorders, blood disorders, deafness, eye problems, respiratory disorders, giardia, parvovirus, distemper, kennel cough, mange, fleas, parasites, chronic diarrhea and more. That can mean sick dogs and high veterinary bills, according to the Humane Society of the United States.

How is this legal?

The ASPCA gives insight to the barely there regulations in place to protect dogs. “Under the federal Animal Welfare Act, it is completely legal to keep a dog in a cage only six inches longer than the dog in each direction, with a wire floor, stacked on top of another cage, for the dog's entire life. Conditions that most people would consider inhumane, or even cruel, are often totally legal.”
Some states have additional laws on the books to try to put a stop the puppy mill trade, but because facilities can vary from ultra small to huge, it’s hard to define exactly what a puppy mill looks like.

How can you avoid buying a dog that came from a mill?

Puppy mills count on the public not asking too many questions, and on pet stores that largely don’t mind acquiring their dogs from mills. Like the mills themselves, many pet stores want to turn a profit rather than looking out for the best interest of the dogs. Since there's no
legal definition of a puppy mill, the ASPCA warns that unscrupulous pet store owners can get around the issue by saying that their puppies all come from licensed USDA breeders or local breeders. Since all breeders who sell their dogs to pet stores are required to be licensed by the USDA, that’s not any kind of guarantee the dogs come from a reputable breeder.
The ASPCA explains, “The fact is, responsible breeders would never sell a puppy through a pet store because they want to screen potential buyers to ensure that the puppies are going to good homes.”

Where should I get a dog if I shouldn’t go to a pet store?

The big animal protection organizations like the ASPCA and the Humane Society of the United States recommend heading to your local shelter or rescue organization to adopt a dog rather than buying from a pet store. Many people aren’t aware that purebreds end up in shelters just like any other dogs. Plus, there are rescues that specialize in certain breeds.

SEE THE DOG FACTORY VIDEO BY BBC HERE

If you're determined to go to a private breeder, make sure you visit that breeder in person at the facility so you can see the operation for yourself.

American Curl

Boasting head adornments that could have easily been fashioned by a legendary hat designer, along with their opulent plumed tails reminiscent of a luxurious ostrich-feather boa, the American Curl has audiences in awe worldwide. Distinguished by truly unique ears that curl back in a graceful arc, offering an alert, perky, happily surprised expression, they cause people to break out into a big smile when viewing their first Curl. Designed exclusively by Mother Nature, the ears can be likened to those of a Lynx with long tufts fanning outward, accentuating the swept-back look while complementing the Curl’s overall sophistication, stylish elegance, and dynamic presence.

Wake-up call! The alarm rings, and emerging out from under the covers, eager to start the day, is your Curl buddy. Eyelid pats, nose kisses, and hair licking prompt a gentle awakening. Then your eyes focus on that exuberant little Curl face, and another day begins. The Curl personality is truly unique. If not sleeping up high somewhere in a large salad bowl, figuring out with great determination just how to get into the shower with you, or assuming their right spot in front of a favorite TV show, they are patting at your glasses while you try to read the paper.

Needless to say, Curls are very people-oriented, faithful, affectionate soulmates, adjusting remarkably fast to other pets, children, and new situations. People say they are very dog-like in their attentiveness to their owners, following them around so as not to miss anything. When introduced into a new home, Curls seems to have an inherent respect for the current pet occupants, giving them plenty of room to adjust to the new kid on the block. Not overly talkative, the Curl’s curiosity and intelligence are expressed through little trill-like cooing sounds. Because they retain their kitten-like personality well throughout adulthood, they are referred to as the Peter Pan of felines.

When Curls are born, their ears are straight. In 3 to 5 days, they start to curl back, staying in a tight rosebud position and unfurling gradually until permanently “set” at around 16 weeks. This is the time breeders determine the kitten’s ear quality as either pet or show in addition to the kitten’s overall conformation. The degree of ear curl can vary greatly, ranging from almost straight (pet quality) to a show quality ear with an arc of 90-180 degrees resembling a graceful shell-like curvature.

Although the distinctive feature of the American Curl is their uniquely curled ears, the medium-sized rectangular body, silky flat-lying coat, and expressive walnut-shaped eyes are equally indicative of the breed. They are available in both long and shorthair color and pattern varieties, and since there is minimal undercoat, the Curl sheds little and requires hardly any grooming.

On a typical hot June day in 1981, a stray longhaired black female cat with funny ears mooched a meal from Joe and Grace Ruga in Lakewood, California, and moved in. “Shulamith” is the original American Curl to which all bona fide pedigrees trace their origin. No one ever suspected that from that simple encounter, and the birth of some kittens 6 months later, would grow a worldwide debate about the genetics behind those unusual curled ears. When selective breeding began in 1983, fanciers bred the American Curl with an eye toward developing a show breed. In analyzing data on 81 litters (383 kittens), renowned feline geneticist Roy Robinson of London, England, confirmed that the ear-curling gene is autosomal dominant, which means that any cat with even one copy of the gene will show the trait. In the December 1989 Journal of Heredity, Robinson reported finding no defects in any of the crosses he analyzed. This information provided the pathway for a new and healthy breed…and one with an outstanding temperament.

Indeed, the discovery of a novel cat is an event of great importance to feline fans and fanatics, and especially true when it’s inherently born to radiate well-being and good things to all fortunate enough to hold one. As the founder of this amazingly spiritual breed says, “They are not just ‘decorator’ cats. You might say that they are ‘designer’ cats, perhaps even signed masterpieces of a humor-loving Creator.’”

Pricing on American Curls usually depends on type, applicable markings, and bloodlines distinguished by Grand Champion (GC), National or Regional winning parentage (NW or RW), or Distinguished Merit parentage (DM). The DM title is achieved by the dam (mother) having produced five CFA grand champion/premier (alter) or DM offspring, or the sire (father) having produced fifteen CFA grand champion/premier or DM offspring. Usually breeders make kittens available between twelve and sixteen weeks of age. After twelve weeks, kittens have had their basic inoculations and developed the physical and social stability needed for a new environment, showing, or being transported by air. Keeping such a rare treasure indoors, neutering or spaying, and providing acceptable surfaces (e.g. scratching posts) for the natural behavior of scratching (CFA disapproves of declawing of tendonectomy surgery) are essential elements for maintaining a healthy, long, and joyful life.

If dogs and cats had legal rights, how would that impact other animals?

People are duking it out over custody of the family companion animal in divorce proceedings. People are suing for damages when a companion animal is injured or killed. People are demanding consideration of companion animals during disaster response.
I guess that means laws giving rights to, at the very least, dogs and cats should be right around the corner, right?
Not so fast, pardner. There are plenty of adversaries to face down before you ride into that town.

Like who?

Well, the American Veterinary Medical Association, for one. To be sure, they WANT you to consider your pet a beloved family member. But they don’t want you suing the crap out of them when you believe a member of their ranks provides substandard care.
They do have a valid point. If dogs and cats had rights, the cost of veterinary care would go through the roof. Think your vet bills are high now? What would they be if the cost of malpractice insurance was tacked onto the cost? And that thing I’m doing now with using a dog medication off-label with Bubba Cat? I’m sure THAT would not be allowed to continue.

Pet stores and Puppy mill breeders are most certainly not for animals having rights. Would that impact the sale of animals? Probably. At the very least, the standards of care required for breeder animals would be strictly regulated, unlike it is now.

Research labs would not be able to conduct the testing on dogs and cats, because dogs and cats cannot provide consent.

Dog food would be more expensive as the requirements for manufacture would become more stringent. Though, to be sure, dog food is already a cut-throat business, and manufacturers are already employing strict manufacturing standards to avoid recalls that can destroy a brand.

Shock collars would most certainly go by the wayside. Say good-bye to your invisible fence!

If you think the one-upmanship of pet owners is bad now, imagine how it would be if your neighbor could report you for not bathing your dog regularly or not taking him for a walk every day. It would be kind of like child abuse investigations are now: some investigations have merit, while others are nuisance calls made to harass the one being investigated.

If dogs and cats had legal rights, how would that impact other animals?

It wouldn’t take long for courts to rule that the Great Apes should also be afforded rights. After all, they are the animals most like humans in appearance. That would impact research labs and zoos.

Animal agriculture would most certainly be impacted. The cost of meat, milk, and eggs would rise as farms would be forced to provide humane living conditions for animals used to feed humans.

Extermination practices would have to change considerably, as it would no longer be acceptable to just poison rats and mice.

As you have no doubt figured out, this is not a change that people would willingly accept in one lump sum. It’s going to take time, and a continuing change in public perception to get us there.

Are YOU still willing to fight for animals to have rights, or is the cost going to be higher than you’re willing to pay?

The cost of eggs is going to go up because of the law recently enacted in CA. Even midwestern egg farmers will have to raise their prices if they supply to California, because they will have to comply with the new regulations, that require the chicken’s cage be large enough for it to move around and flap its wings. That means fewer chickens in the same amount of space, which means fewer eggs, and higher heating costs for farmers. Of course, you could just buy eggs from your local farms, where you can see the chickens running free the way they are meant to be. The cost will be comparable.

You can always cut meat and dairy out of your diet if the cost irks you.

There should be a way to grant animals more rights in terms of quality of life without granting full “personhood”.

It is good that someone is tackling this subject. Like you say, it is large and complex. Mostly, I see it as sad.

to help animals, and more who think it is lucrative…Their prices reflect their greed in many cases.

There are faults on all sides, over breeding, shelters–(badly named if they ‘kill’), lax laws for abusers, the people who ‘have to have purebreds over mixed breeds, (those people should look at the percentage of purebred animals that end up in “shelters” and are destroyed,) the list goes on and on.

Turning things around takes so long, it sometimes feels hopeless—actually a good deal of the time.

Granting ‘personhood’–I wonder….’Personhood’ is what is responsible for the status of things now….

Thought provoking post. I think animals do have ‘rights’ or at least protection in law. I stand by the RSPCA (and other charities) in their fight for fair treatment of all animals – domestic or farmyard. And to bring prosecutions where necessary. Only by debating animal rights, will more people become aware of the issues and perceptions will change. In the meantime, it is incumbent on all animal lovers to bring wrong-doing to the attention of the authorities and social media.

The protection laws we have in place here in the UK are clearly not working so rights are needed. I don’t care how it effects puppy mills and pet shops. I would be happy to pay more for food. And vet treatment is one of those things you expect as a pet owner. I would pay whatever it took. 

However I do take your point on the off the label medicines. When one of my guinea pigs was ill, they recommended an anti-biotic which was actually for cat use but it worked exactly as they promised. 

However we already see pets as members of the family, why doesn’t...