The Highlander Cat

A substantial cat, the Highlander brings together the sweeping grace of the curl eared cats, and the massive size of the lynx. Completely domestic, this massive feline averages a weight of fourteen pounds and is a masterful combination of strength and graceful beauty. The head should be an inverted pear shape with medium to large ears that are firm at the base and flexible at the tips. They should be in a relaxed curl of no more than 90 degrees. Ear furnishings and tufts are ideal. Eyes should be medium to large and wide set, resembling a flattened oval in shape. The body is medium to large in size, rectangular in shape and athletic in appearance. Legs should be medium in length, with back legs longer than front. Feet should be medium to large and round with large knuckles; long coats should have toe tufts. The tail should be short and thick, a minimum of one inch long in adults but not extending past the hock. The coat can be short or long and comes in four colors: solid, tortie, tabby, or silver/smoke.

Despite their regal appearance, Highlanders are definitely the court jesters. This is a highly active breed that loves to play chase. Affectionate, they will be first to greet you at the door and will happily show off to visitors. Relatively quiet, this is a soft-voiced animal with few needs and lots of love.

This is a low maintenance breed of cat. General care should be taken when purchasing any kitten from a breeder to check for hereditary diseases and disorders and potential owners should have any kitten examined by their vet before purchasing. Regular grooming is recommended for long haired cats. There are no special nutritional needs.

This is a new breed to appear on the cat fancy scene. Breed development began in 2004 and it's starting name was the Highland Lynx, a name that easily described the size of the cat that was desired. The breed has been developed from the large domestic gene pool, and though the ears resemble those of the American Curl, the Highlander does not receive its ear curl from that same gene. The Highlander is a TICA recognized breed and was accepted for competition in the New Breed class in May of 2008.

Take care of your Dog - Winter

How Can I Prevent Winter Health Risks to My Dog?

Frostbite. Frostbite begins when the dog’s body gets cold. The body pulls blood from the extremities to the center of the body to stay warm. The dog’s ears, paws or tail can get so cold that ice crystals will form in the tissue and damage it. Frostbite is not immediately obvious. Watch for signs of pale or grey skin as the skin may also turn hard and cold. As frostbitten areas warm, they can be extremely painful. Severely frostbitten skin will eventually turn black and fall off.

Hypothermia. The other very serious winter weather health concern for dogs is hypothermia. Hypothermia occurs when a dog spends too much time in the cold, gets wet in cold temperatures or when dogs with poor health or circulation are exposed to cold. In mild cases, the dog will shiver and ears and feet will become cold. As hypothermia progresses, your dog may show signs of depression, lethargy, and weakness. As the condition worsens, the muscles will stiffen, the heart and breathing rates slow down, and will not respond to stimuli. Severe hypothermia is life-threatening.

What Are the Ways in Which I Can Help Protect My Dog During the Winter Months?

Temperature. Some dog breeds are blessed with thick fur that keeps them warm naturally in very cold temperatures, but dogs with thin coats may need to wear a sweater or coat when out for winter walks. A good coat should reach from the neck to the base of the tail and also protect the belly but coats will not prevent frostbite on the ears, feet or tail. Even wearing a warm coat, do not keep your short-haired dog out for too long in freezing temperatures.

Go outside when the sun shines. Try to walk your dog in the late morning or early afternoon hours when temperatures are a little warmer, and avoid early morning or late evening walks. Spend time playing outdoors while it is sunny; sunshine brings the added benefit of providing both you and your pet with vitamin D. Play fetch with toys, not sticks, as sticks can cause choking and other injuries. If your dog wants to chew and chase, bring a Frisbee, ball or other safe toy and play together in the sun.

Indoor pets are happiest. Our family dog needs to be indoors with us. Take your dog out frequently for walks and exercise but your dog should live inside the home. Do not leave pets outdoors alone when the temperature drops. A good rule of thumb is to go out with them and when you are ready to come in, your dog probably is, too.

Warm bedding. Do not let your best friend sleep on a cold floor in winter. Choosing the right bedding is essential to ensure your dog stays warm. Warm blankets can create a snug environment. Elevated beds will keep your dog off cold tiles or concrete, and heated pet beds can help keep the stiffness out of aging joints. Place your dog’s bed in a warm spot away from drafts, cold tile or uncarpeted floors, preferably in a favorite spot where he sleeps every day so that the area does not feel unfamiliar.

Keep your dog away from heat sources. Dogs will often seek heat during cold winter weather by snuggling too close to heating sources. Avoid space heaters and be mindful of fireplaces.  Never leave pets alone near a fireplace or wood stove. Even if your fireplace has a mesh covering or glass doors, pets can still get burns from coming into contact with those hot surfaces.

Moisturize.Your home’s furnace or central air system emits dry heat. This low humidity environment can rob your dog’s skin of necessary moisture, which results in dry, flaky, and sensitive skin. while it is true that your dog’s body continually replaces the layer of damaged skin, however, if left unmanaged, the condition will continue throughout the winter. Damaged skin and your dog’s relentless scratching to relieve her itch can open the door for more serious skin problems.

Do not overfeed. Although dogs may need an extra layer in winter, it should come from the coat and not a layer of fat. Cold temperatures may even bring on lazy behavior and the need for fewer calories. Be attentive to your dog’s activity level and adjust his calories accordingly. A high quality, whole foods, preferably meat-based diet will help ensure a healthy coat and good energy for the cold winter months.

Paw care. Dogs can also suffer from cracked pads just as we can suffer from cracked feet during the winter months. If your dog has furry feet, trim the hair that grows between his pads to prevent ice buildup between the pads. Winter salt on city sidewalks can also burn your dog’s pads and is toxic, so after walks around the neighborhood, rinse or wipe your dog’s paws to remove any salt. If your dog shows signs of discomfort when walking outside on frozen or salted surfaces, consider using dog booties to protect his paws.

Snow removal. Snow can be dangerous for your dog. Snow piled near fences offers your dog escape routes that even well-trained dogs often cannot resist. After clearing snow from your yard, pile it away from fences to prevent your dog from climbing over. Snow and ice often accumulate on rooftops and if the sun is out or as temperatures rise, this accumulation can slide and injure your dog. If you cannot clear the snow from the roof, keep your dog away from the roof overhang to prevent injury.

Never leave your dog unattended in the car, no matter the season. Just as cars can get dangerously hot in summer, freezing cold temperatures are equally dangerous for your dog in winter. Leaving the car running involves additional risks, including carbon monoxide poisoning if the car is parked in a garage. It is best to leave your dog at home when you go out to run errands.

Special care for seniors. Cold weather will often aggravate existing medical conditions in dogs, particularly arthritis. It is very important to maintain an exercise routine with your arthritic dog, but be mindful of slippery surfaces and make sure that your dog has a warm soft rest area to recuperate after activity. If you do not already give your senior dog a natural joint supplement to lubricate the joints and ease the discomfort of arthritis, you may want to talk to your vet about adding glucosamine and chondroitin to your dog’s senior diet.

How Your Dog's Diet Affects Outputs

If you are a computer guru, you may remember the term GIGO.  This term stands for Garbage In.  Garbage Out.  So, what does this have to do with your dog's diet?  Well, your dog may be no walking, wagging, and barking computer, but he or she works in the same way.  What food goes into your pet will eventually come out in the end.

Your dog's diet will affect the outputs considerably.  Other factors play a role such as illness, nerves, and the weather.  You can tell a lot about the health of your hound by the outputs produced.
As any responsible pet owner knows, cleaning up after your pet is not the most pleasant job, but it is a necessary one.  Being choosy and selective about your dog's diet will make cleaning up after your pet much easier.
When your dog is eating a diet high in fillers, your pet will show it.  The excrement will be large in size and often runny and hard to pick up.  You may notice when you give your pet leftovers from the table, he or she is really happy, but you aren't exactly smiling on the next trip around the block.  The outputs of a pet eating an unhealthy diet is just plain messy, stinky, and large.
Even treats such as rawhide bones can change your dog's stool.  Your dog's diet consists of everything your pet eats from treats to mealtime.  Monitor how treats affect your dog's outputs to determine how healthy the snack really is for your pet.

If you choose to feed your dog a balanced diet that is high in quality, you will notice a particular difference in the outputs.  Cleanup may not be placed on the top of your things to-do list, but it will be much easier and more tolerable.  When the dog's diet is healthy and nutritious, you will have less mess in the yard or kennel.

Dog handlers with service animals are educated about the importance of a healthy diet and outputs during training.  It is important, for example, that a guide dog not have an accident while working.  The public would not be highly tolerant of trouble in a restaurant or grocery store.  Take a tip from trainers and keep your dog's diet healthy to avoid these messy situations.

Consult your veterinarian to decide what type of diet is best for your dog.  Look for a dry dog food that lists meat as the first ingredient.  This will help to reduce the amount of fillers your pet will consume.

Feeding your pet on a schedule is important.  When looking at your dog's diet, do not simply focus on what you are feeding your pet, but also focus on when you feed your dog.  If your dog's diet includes consistent mealtimes, you will be better able to predict your dog's potty schedule.  This can play a major role in effective housebreaking technique. 

Helping your pet eat right is the first step to maintaining a healthy diet for your dog.  Your dog's diet, when perfected, will keep things running smoothly.  Minimize outputs and mess with nutritious, scheduled feeding.  Beware of treats in your dog's diet.  Knowing what goes into your pet will reduce the garbage coming out. 

What is the Green Bean Dog Diet

What is the Green Bean Dog Diet?

For some time, people have tossed around the idea of the green bean diet for dogs.  You may have heard of this and considered trying it.  Let's look at the green bean dog diet and discuss some of the pros and cons.

If you choose to feed your dog the green bean diet, you must know that you cannot exclusively feed your pet green beans.  Only supplying your dog with this green vegetable will not be a healthy choice for your dog's diet.  Pet owners will need to find a balance between dog food, for example, and green beans that will produce the desired results.  

The green bean dog diet involves standard kibble for your pet mixed with a portion of green beans.  The green beans are a healthy way to keep your dog full between meals.  For example, your lab may only need two cups of high-quality dog food per day to maintain a healthy weight, but he is always scrounging around and hungry.  Adding some green beans to  the food at meal time will help your dog's diet stay on track and keep your dog feeling full and happy.   

Should all dogs be eating the green bean diet?  Not all dog's need to have green beans added to their meals.   Typically, the green bean dog diet is recommended for dogs who need to lose weight.  After the initial weight loss, many pet owners continue to follow the green bean dog diet to help maintain a healthy weight for their pet.  

Both dogs and owners are often pleased with the results of the green bean dog diet.  Pet owners feel good about supporting the health of their dog.  Also, it is comforting for us humans to see a sizable helping for our pet.  Looking into the dog dish and seeing a few sparse kibbles totaling a half cup does not appear as generous as that same amount of kibble surrounded by a healthy helping of fancy cut green beans.

It is rare that your dog will turn his or her nose up at the green beans.  Your dog's diet is healthy and appreciated.  Dogs feel fuller and will respond with a more pleasant attitude and less scrounging around in search of some grub.

One negative factor to consider when changing your dog's diet over to the green bean diet, is the added fiber.  Some dog's systems react to this, so monitor your pet's outputs.  Begin adding the green beans slowly and gradually increase.  Some pet owners find it beneficial to only add the green beans to the dog's diet at one specific time during the day to keep the dog's potty schedule in order.

If you decide to turn your dog's diet over to the green bean dog diet, there are a few simple tips to keep in mine.  You won't be feeding your dog several cans of green beans a day.  Purchase a resealable lid to cover the open can of green beans for easier storage in the fridge between meals.  Measure the amount of green beans in your dog's diet just as you would measure kibble or treats.

If you notice the store has green beans on sale, by all means, purchase a few cans ahead and stock up.  Although green beans are not particularly expensive, it never hurts to save some cash.

Whenever possible, purchase canned green beans with no added salt.  This is a healthy option for your dog's diet, typically at no additional cost to you.  

The green bean dog diet can have many advantages.  Monitor your dog's intake to prevent unpredictable outputs.  The green bean dog diet helps to properly lose and maintain weight while keeping you and your pet happy.

Aging Cats’ Nutritional Needs Change After Age 11

America’s most popular pet, the cat, lives more than half of its life in the senior years. Although advances in veterinary care, better nutrition and better educated owners have helped improve the quantity and quality of these years, studies reveal that senior cats continue to struggle with weight as the result of reduced activity levels and a steady decline in senses, nutrient absorption and fat digestion.
“One of the most important goals

when feeding senior cats is maintaining an ideal weight and keeping that weight stable,” said Dr. Arnold Plotnick, who developed a senior wellness program to address the special needs of aging cats at his veterinary clinic, Manhattan Cat Specialists in New York City.
Owners of senior cats can help their aging felines maintain an ideal body weight throughout the senior lifestage by feeding a diet that addresses their unique nutritional needs. Purina Pro Plan, for instance, has reformulated its entire line of senior cat foods to address the changing nutritional needs of aging cats in two different phases of the senior lifestage: ages 7 to 11 (mature) and 11 and up (senior).
As cats age, there’s a gradual decline in the body’s ability to repair itself, maintain normal body functions and adapt to stresses in the environment. Disease and weight changes are common throughout the senior lifestage.
Cats are more likely to face weight gain during the mature years when activity level declines and metabolism slows. But around age 11, weight loss becomes a greater concern.
The 11-plus years are particularly problematic for cats because their sense of smell and taste often diminish at this time, which affects their interest in food. The ability to absorb key nutrients and digest fat declines, making eating itself less efficient.
The undesirable result is that more food passes through as waste and less is used for energy, causing a drop in lean muscle mass and body fat that leads to potentially harmful weight loss.
In addition to providing the proper diet, owners of senior cats should pay close attention to their cats’ activity levels, weight, and eating, grooming and elimination habits and report anything new or different to their veterinarian.
Though many of these changes are a normal part of aging, others may signal a more serious problem. Scheduling veterinary visits at least twice a year is good practice during the senior years as many potentially serious conditions are treatable if caught early.

8 Great Reasons to Use a Crate

Learn how to give your dog his own space.

1. House train your dog. Efficient and humane training aids, crates take advantage of the dog's natural tendency to keep its sleeping area clean. However, you should crate your puppy for only as long as it can reasonably control its bladder and bowels.

2. Protect your dog. Crating a dog prevents it from chewing electrical cords or eating poisonous plants, toxic cleaning fluids, or nylon socks (which can tear up your dog's intestines.) These are only a few dangers awaiting new dogs left alone in a home.

3. Protect your property. A crate costs between $25 and $200, depending on its size and where you buy it. That's a bargain compared to the cost of replacing furniture and other belongings your new dog can destroy.

4. Curb and prevent separation anxiety. You love your dog, but you can't spend every minute of every day with him. The crate can help you teach your dog to enjoy spending time alone.

5. Introduce chew toys. A dog engrossed in chewing a toy will stay out of mischief. Give your dog time in his crate with two stuffed chew toys, and he'll become hooked on his crate and stay out of trouble.

6. Give a timeout. A new dog gives you great rewards, but it also can drain you. If your dog becomes excessively excited or starts nipping, use the crate for a brief timeout. Don't do this to punish your dog. (Never use a crate negatively.) Rather, the timeout allows your dog to regain his composure so he can interact appropriately with you.

7. Travel safely. Whether your dog travels by air or car, a crate is one of the best ways to ensure safety. Additionally, when you stay in a hotel, keep your dog in a crate to prevent damage.

8. Provide security. Crates provide your dog with his own quiet place to hang out. This is especially important if you have a busy household and children. To encourage your dog to accept people petting him while inside the crate, praise him and give him tasty rewards on occasion. Also, let children know not to bother your dog while he is inside the crate. That's his quiet time.

Sunny Days - How to Make you Dog Safer Part 2

How Can I Travel Safely with My Dog?

Dogs can be wonderful traveling companions. But before you hit the road with your furry friend, make sure you know what you need to do to make your dog as safe and comfortable as possible on your journey. These Frequently Asked Questions can help you plan the perfect trip!

Should I take my pet along on my vacation?

It's important to ask yourself if taking your pet along is what's best for him or her — or if it's just what's best for you. At home, your pet has all of his or her favorite toys, sleeping spots, and perhaps the run of the backyard all day. If your vacation involves a road trip, you need to ask how well your pet will accept being in a car for long periods of time. Is he acclimated to a car? Does she love going out and about with you — or would she rather stay at home? Animals that very infrequently ride in a car are poor candidates for automobile vacations. Some pets shouldn't travel at all. If your pet is very young or very old, sick, recovering from surgery, or pregnant, then leave her at home.

Travel by air can be difficult, if not downright hazardous, for pets. Many animals do not travel well on airplanes; this is true of cats, older animals, hyperactive dogs, and short-muzzled dogs, who may have difficulty breathing in a cargo hold. pets have been lost in transit, have been injured, or have even died when traveling in cargo holds. Consider these facts carefully when planning a vacation that involves air travel.

What are my options if I leave my pet behind?

If you will be leaving your pet behind while you travel, you can either find a safe place for him or her to stay, or find someone to care for him or her in your home.

Boarding Your Pet

Do you want to board your pet? Then visit the kennel beforehand. Make sure you inspect it personally to satisfy yourself that it is clean, safe, and roomy enough for your pet. Don't be afraid to take your business elsewhere if there is anything you don't like about a particular facility.

Kennel staff should be friendly. Veterinary care must be easily available; in fact, many veterinarians offer boarding facilities. Animals should be checked at least four times a day, fed twice, and dogs walked at least twice. Ask how many hours animals are left unattended, especially at night. Find out the kennel's vaccination requirements. Medication and special diets, if they are needed, must be accommodated. Make sure there is a laundry for bedding.

If you plan to board your cat, make sure that the cages are tall and supply different levels for your cat to climb and sit.

Other questions to ask a prospective boarding facility include: Can a friend visit your pet? Will your pet have access to a run? Is the kennel air-conditioned or heated?

Once you decide on a boarding facility, make your reservation well in advance, especially for holiday or summer travel.

Hiring a "Pet" Sitter

You may be able to arrange for a trusted friend or relative to watch your pet while you are away. If not, you can hire a professional "pet" sitter to come into your home once or twice a day to take care of your pet. Some can even stay in your home while you are away. They will walk, play with, feed, and clean up after your pet. Most will even pick up your mail, and turn lights on at night.

Before hiring, interview the sitter in your home so you can see how he or she and your pet get along. Discuss your pet's needs, habits, and personality. Ask such questions as: What was your worst pet-sitting experience? If my pet gets loose, what will you do? Make sure the sitter is bonded and insured. Get references and call those references. Make sure the sitter has an emergency evacuation plan in case disaster strikes while you are away. If you do hire a pet sitter, before you go on your vacation, be sure to leave detailed written instructions on your animal's care and feeding habits; your complete itinerary, including telephone numbers of where you can be reached; and the name and phone number of your veterinarian. You may also want to notify your veterinarian, and leave a credit card number for emergencies, particularly for older animals or for animals on medication.

What should I do to prepare my pet for a trip?

If you do plan to take your pet along with you, make sure he or she is properly trained to sit, stay, and come.

No matter what form of transportation you choose, your pet should wear a collar, license, and proper identification at all times. Identification tags should have at least your name and telephone number on it. If you are vacationing in one location, get your pet a temporary ID tag that has the address and phone number of the hotel/apartment/house where you are staying. Have your animal microchipped as well.

A nylon collar or harness is best for either a cat or a dog. Never allow your pet to travel wearing a choke-chain; the collar-pull could become snagged on the carrier or other object and he/she may choke to death. A cat must wear a safety stretch collar to prevent accidental strangulation.

Keep handy your pet's shot records, along with a written description and several photos of you with your pets in case he/she becomes lost. You will need these to claim your pet from the local animal control center.

Also take along a leash, a supply of your pet's usual food, a container of water, dishes for food and water, a litter box for cats, a favorite toy or two, flea control products if desired, a brush and clippers, any medication your pet may need, and an emergency first-aid kit in case of injury.

If your animal has a bed or "crate" he/she sleeps in, take it along. Never allow cats to travel in the car without being securely in a carrier. Puppies also do best in a "crate" or carrier. Place the carrier in the cargo part of the vehicle or if it is in the back seat, use the seat belts to secure it. (Never put animals in the trunk.)

As soon as you know your pet is vacationing with you, see your veterinarian. Have your vet check your pet's general fitness and ability to travel. Make sure that required immunizations are up to date, and get a copy of the immunization record. Tell your veterinarian about where you are going, and ask if any special precautions are in order.

How can I prepare for air travel?

Traveling by plane may be the most expedient way to travel, but it may also be the hardest on your pet. It places you in a situation where you have little control over the care given your pet. Although federal regulations require that animals transported on airlines be treated humanely, there have been occasional infractions resulting in injury or death of the animals.

Many airlines allow small dogs and cats in appropriate carriers to be brought into the cabin and placed under the seat. Soft-sided carriers are best for this purpose, although flip-top hard cases are also allowed. If your animal companion is small enough, this option permits you greater control and access, and it is far safer for your animals than traveling as cargo in the baggage hold of the aircraft.

Be sure to confirm what types and sizes of carriers the airlines allow.

If your animal companion must be shipped as cargo, there are several ways to minimize the risks:

Book a direct flight whenever possible. Tell the reservation clerk that you will be traveling with a pet. If a direct flight is not available, book a flight with the fewest number of stopovers.

Travel in off-season periods at mid-week, during the day or late evening, which tend to be less hectic for baggage handlers. There is also less chance that your flight will be delayed on the runway.

Never travel with an animal when outside temperatures reach above 80 degrees or below 40 degrees. Most airlines will try to help you select the right flights and advise you about scheduling.

Carriers for Air Travel

Pet carriers must meet minimum legal standards for size, strength, sanitation, and ventilation. The animal must have enough room to breathe, stand up, lie down, and turn around comfortably. The carrier must have handles, a food dish and water dish, and should be labeled with your pet's name, your name, address, and destination. Stickers reading "Live Animal" are required on the top and one side. The sticker on the side should have an arrow pointing to the top of the carrier.

The best carrier is made out of hard plastic with a steel or plastic mesh door. A lip on the side will keep any baggage pressed up against it from blocking the ventilation holes. Make sure the door-locking mechanism is easy to use. Tighten all bolts before travel. If your pet has never flown, familiarize him/her with the carrier gradually. If he/she has a favorite place to sleep, put the carrier in that spot. Place his/her favorite toy, blanket or food in the carrier. Leave the door open and wait until your animal "volunteers" to nap inside. Work toward the point where you can close the door to the carrier without causing distress. Leave the room once the door is secured and your pet is comfortable in the carrier. Your pet needs to become accustomed to being in the carrier without you. Increase the amount of time she is in the carrier with the door closed until she can stay about one and a half times the flight time.

Before Departing by Air

Don't feed your pet for at least six hours prior to departure time. Most pets travel better on an empty stomach, and if they do get sick they will not soil themselves.

Using a spray such as Feliway or Rescue Remedy on the carrier before placing a cat in it may help reduce stress.

Never muzzle your pet — it could restrict his/her breathing and limit his/her ability to pant. Put his/her favorite blanket or toy in the carrier before leaving for the airport.

Some airlines will allow passengers to supervise the loading of their pets, but you must request this privilege. As soon as you get on the plane, politely ask the flight attendant to remind the captain that live animals are in the cargo hold and that the heating or cooling controls need to be turned on and the cargo hold pressurized. Feel free to express your anxiety to the flight attendant, so as to sensitize the staff to how important your animal is to you.

Once you reach your destination and have deplaned, immediately retrieve your pet from the designated baggage claim area.

How can I prepare for car travel?

A few safety procedures are vital when traveling by car. Never leave your dog unattended in a hot car. Your pet can suffer irreparable brain damage or death if left in a car on a warm day; even "just a few minutes" may be too long.

You may need to acclimate your animal to car travel. Start with both of you sitting the car with the engine on. Gradually build up to a trip around the block, then try a visit to a park farther away. (Thirty minutes is a good test of tolerance.) If your dog is to remain loose in the car, she must learn that the driver's seat and area are off limits.

Do not let your dog hang her head outside the window; dust and debris can easily lodge in delicate eyes.

Pet supply stores stock inexpensive restraint devices that secure your animal to the seatbelt buckle or to the seatbelt itself. If you are involved in an automobile accident, the restraining device will keep your pet from crashing into the front window or car seat. The restraint will also keep your animal inside the vehicle and away from the driver.

Animals should not ride in the bed of pickup trucks. The risks of injury and death are too great, even if the animal is tethered. Some states even require that dogs ride in the cab of trucks.

How can I prepare for boat travel?

If you are vacationing on your boat, remember to treat your pet as if he or she were a child. This means putting a flotation vest on your pet. While dogs are natural swimmers, they can tire easily and may drown before they reach the shore. It also means not letting your pet stand on the bow of boat where a sudden shift may throw the animal into the water (and into the path of the boat or its propellers). Never let your pet ride in a boat while it is being towed.

Some cruise liners will allow pets to travel in special holds but prohibit them from passenger cabins. Further, quarantine laws may require your pet to be confined from two weeks to six months. An animal in quarantine is boarded at your own expense.

Are there other methods of travel available for my pet?

At present, Amtrak does not allow pets to travel on its trains. Some commuter trains and smaller train operations may allow a pet to travel in the baggage car in a carrier. Check with your local railroad to verify that it allows pets on board. Also find out if its baggage cars are air-conditioned or heated (most are not). If not, consider another form of transportation or avoid train travel in extreme weather conditions. If your train has a long stopover, retrieve your pet from the carrier and take him/her for a walk. Unless yours is an assistance animal, bus lines do not allow animals on board. Some local transit systems may, however, allow muzzled and leashed or crated animals on board during non-peak hours. Check with your local transit authority for current restrictions.

How can I camp safely with a dog?

If you cannot reliably control your pet, he or she should not go camping with you. Any pet you take into the wilderness must know instantly how to sit, stay, heel, and come on command, for his or her own safety as well as yours. Dogs can frighten wildlife and should be discouraged from barking, especially at night or when hiking in the wilderness.

Never let your dog wander from your campsite. Dogs can injure or kill wildlife. They are also prone to agitate bears and have even been known to lead them into campgrounds. If you plan to go camping in bear country, it is best to leave your dog at home. Many campgrounds require all dogs to be on a leash, so do not take along your dog if he or she is not leash trained. The safest place for a dog to sleep is in the tent with you.

Be sure to check with the park or campground you are visiting about whether they allow dogs and under what conditions.

What do I do if my pet becomes lost?

If the unthinkable happens and your pet runs away, take the following steps:

Contact the local animal control shelter and humane society and provide them with a current photograph of your pet.

Post reward signs that feature a photocopied picture of your pet and a number where you can be reached or where messages can be left for you.

Give the local police a description of your pet. They may be willing to keep an eye out for your pet while on patrol.

Place an ad in the local newspaper, including a phone number where you can be reached.

If you cannot stay in the area, give your home address and telephone number to the local shelter, humane society, and the hotel where you stayed in case your pet is found.

Sunny Days - How to Make you Dog Safer Part 1

What Should I Do About Fleas and Ticks?

United Animal Nations is pleased to share these tips on how to deal with fleas and ticks, which are usually most troublesome to pets in the warm summer weather. Fortunately, prevention and treatment are fairly simple, as you'll discover in these Frequently Asked Questions.

The information below offers suggested remedies, and should not be regarded as comprehensive. Please contact your veterinarian for more information.

How often should I check my pets for ticks or fleas?

Pets should be checked at least once a week for ticks, fleas, or skin irritations. If you discover a tick, remove it gently, using fine-point tweezers as close to the skin as possible (making sure to grasp the tick where the mouth parts are embedded into the skin).

Is it enough just to kill any fleas found on my pet?

Even a single adult flea on a dog or cat indicates a major infestation that must be treated.

At any given time, only 5% of the flea population is in the adult stage; the other 95% consists of pupae, larvae, and eggs. One female flea can lay more than 800 eggs in her six-week lifetime. An egg can become an adult flea, ready to reproduce, in less than three weeks. Within only 30 days, just 10 fleas can produce 250,000 children and grandchildren.The flea's diet consists of blood. Each flea feeds about once every hour, so an animal with only 25 fleas could be bitten as many as 600 times in one day.An excess of fleas can make your pet anemic. Constant scratching can cause hair loss, and allergies to fleas can cause hot spots. Animals can also develop large open, oozing wounds due to flea bites. All of these conditions are dangerous to a pet's health and expensive to treat. It's best to treat an infestation as early as possible.

How can I rid my pet of fleas?

w can I rid my pet of fleas?

The fine teeth of a flea comb will pull most of the adults and eggs off a pet. Combing your animal regularly will quickly determine whether or not fleas are present.

Flea shampoos are an effective means of killing fleas on a pet, but they are species-specific. (Never use a shampoo meant for dogs on cats.) Follow the instructions carefully. For best results, start lathering at the neck and work back to the tail. Be sure to soap the tail, legs, and underbelly completely. When done, rinse your pet as thoroughly as possible and towel dry.

Flea shampoos are better than flea powders or sprays or dips, since when properly rinsed no flea toxins remain to make your pet ill.

A flea collar may help kill fleas, but it's little more than a poison strap worn by a pet. Also, its effectiveness against fleas deteriorates over time and it must be changed regularly.

After treatment, prevention is necessary. Flea eggs or pupae can stay in a dormant state for months, growing to maturity when conditions for them "improve." You must get rid of them now, both inside and, if your animals are indoor/outdoor, outside as well.

How can I prevent fleas on my pet?

Many people use preventive medicines (such as Frontline, Program or Advantage) on their pets. These medications kill adult fleas and/or inhibit the growth of flea larvae. Consult your veterinarian about the risks and benefits of these products. Treatment of a pet should be done in conjunction with treatment of the areas in which the pet spends time.

How can I prevent fleas inside my house?

Vacuum regularly. Because fleas thrive on the contents of the vacuum cleaner bag, sprinkle some flea powder on the floor or carpet and vacuum that up, too. Dispose of the bag after vacuuming.

"Flea bombs" that contain an Insect Growth Regulator (IGR) prevent flea larvae from maturing, thus breaking the infestation cycle within a house. IGRs must be used in every room in a house in order to be effective. These products can be toxic to humans and other animals; research the side effects of IGR "bombs" before using.

How can I prevent fleas outside my house?

Fleas and ticks love tall grass, so mow and edge your yard well to eliminate this ideal breeding ground.

Some people prevent fleas by spraying toxic chemicals on their lawns. What's heavily toxic to fleas, however, will kill beneficial insects, and may also harm pets or humans. This approach should be used only after thorough research and with caution.

Several natural and/or nontoxic flea control approaches exist, including use of beneficial nematodes and diatomaceous earth. Nurseries and garden shops can be good sources of information on these methods.