How to Reduce Pet Allergens at Home

Pets can be your best friends, but if you have allergies or asthma, they can also be your worst enemy. Pets shed dander, a combination of dead skin cells and hair (or feathers), which can trigger asthma attacks and allergic reactions in some people. However, you can cut down on pet allergens at home.

Cute but hazardous

Pets shed dander, a combination of dead skin cells and hair (or feathers), which can trigger asthma attacks and allergic reactions in people who are sensitive to the allergens. (Cold-blooded pets such as snakes and turtles do not produce dander.)
Some guidelines recommend that people with allergies or asthma avoid keeping pets—especially cats. If a doctor says that you—or your child's—allergies or asthma is aggravated by dander, you may ultimately need to find a new home for your pet. However, there are several ways you can cut down on pet allergens at home.

Minimize contact

You can reduce dander in your home by keeping your pet outdoors as much as possible. At the very least, you should bar pets from bedrooms where people with allergies or asthma sleep.

Children with allergies should also avoid petting or touching animals. If they do come into contact with a pet, they should wash their hands thoroughly.
Restricting pets to rooms with wood floors may also help. Wood flooring traps less dander than carpet and is easier to clean; keeping pets off carpet may help cut down on allergens.

Keep Fluffy off the couch

Keeping pets off carpets, upholstered furniture, and beds can reduce exposure to dander. (Using allergen-resistant bedding will help fend off any dander that does find its way into bedrooms.) Keeping pets out of cars—or restricting them to a tailgate area, if possible—is also a good idea.
In addition, any furniture, fabrics, or materials that pets do come into contact with should be vacuumed or washed frequently. This includes throw rugs, pet beds, cushions, pillows, and blankets.

Clean, clean, clean

Dusting as often as possible will keep dander (as well as dust mites and other allergens) to a minimum. Vacuuming, however, may not get all the allergens from the lower levels of a rug and may stir up a bit of dander as you clean. It may help to use vacuums equipped with a high-efficiency particulate air (HEPA) filter or double bags. However, it's still a good idea to dust or vacuum when the person with allergies or asthma is not at home.
Replacing wall-to-wall carpets with wood floors will make it easier to remove dander.
A 1999 study in the Journal of Allergy and Clinical Immunology compared the levels of allergens in dog dander before and after a five-minute bath with an unnamed “proprietary shampoo” (which could describe an allergen-reducing shampoo). The researchers found that the bath reduced the dogs’ allergen levels by about 85% .

Close registers

If you have forced-air heating and air conditioning, closing air registers may reduce the amount of animal dander that circulates through your home. If closing all of the registers isn’t practical, try closing those in the rooms where asthmatic or allergic individuals spend the most time (especially bedrooms).
Replacing the filter in your furnace or air conditioner with a HEPA filter and/or purchasing a room air cleaner may also help. Studies on the effectiveness of these methods have been inconclusive, however. Research shows that frequently bathing your pet reduces the allergens found in their dander.

Clean cages

Though hamsters, guinea pigs, rabbits, birds, and other pets typically confined to cages tend to be less problematic for allergy and asthma sufferers, dander and urine produced by these pets can still provoke allergic reactions and asthma attacks.

Birdcages and rodent cages should be cleaned at least once a week and, if possible, the cages should be moved outside to a garage or shed. Likewise, litter boxes should be cleaned frequently and moved out of living areas.

Dog attack what to do

There are about 4.5 million dog bites every year in the U.S., according to the CDC. Nearly one in every five of those bites becomes infected (around 900,000), and between 1999 and 2007, dogs were the cause of 250 deaths. If you don’t count venomous insects, man’s best friend is one of the deadliest animals in the U.S.

A majority of dog attacks are caused by people’s pets that have either gotten loose or weren’t properly leashed to begin with, but some attacks are by stray or feral dogs.
Feral dogs, sometimes referred to as wild dogs or street dogs, are free-ranging, non-domesticated animals that are not and never were somebody’s pet. They’re usually afraid of people, but can be far more dangerous than a lost or abandoned pet (stray) if they’re cornered, starving, or infected with rabies. According to the Internet Center for Wildlife Damage Management, feral dogs usually form communities that travel together, and they often have rendezvous sites like wolves. They tend to scavenge for food, like garbage and roadkill, around human populations, but they’ve been known to hunt in packs as well. When feral dogs go hunting, it’s usually for livestock, neighborhood pets, and, occasionally, people who are in the wrong place at the wrong time. And don’t think feral dogs are something you’ll only find in rural areas. Feral dog packs can be found in almost any city, from Detroit to Dallas, where a woman was recently mauled and bitten over 100 times in the middle of the street.

f you encounter a single dog you’re not familiar with, be it a stray, feral, or a dog you’re sure is somebody’s pet, the CDC recommends you avoid it—even if it seems like it’s lost or needs help. This goes double for dogs that are sleeping, eating, or caring for puppies. Even if it’s obvious the dog is someone’s pet, an unleashed dog can be dangerous, especially for children. If an unfamiliar dog approaches you, do not run, panic, or make loud noises. Stay motionless, keeping the side of your body facing the dog while avoiding direct eye contact. Say things like “No” or “Go Home” in a deep, firm voice, and slowly raise your hands to cover your neck while keeping your elbows in. Now wait for the dog to leave or begin to slowly back away.

If the dog charges you, it’s still important to stand as still as possible. As Dr. Sofia Yin, DVM, MS, explains, dogs charge for one of two reasons: either because they are scared and know offense is their best defense, or because something you or another person in the vicinity did something that excited them and made them think they’re being rewarded. People’s pets can get caught in a self-reinforced feedback loop where they “play” a little too hard and don’t know any better. If you yell and move around frantically, the dog will think you’re playing along and won’t stop.

If the dog is clearly being aggressive, not playing (growling, snarling, barking), or obviously feral (dirty, no collar, not reacting to commands), Yin recommends you try and put something between you and the animal. A backpack, purse, jacket, or even a shoe can make for a great shield. Look at the dogs’ body language so you can prepare to block attacks. Tension in the body, raised hackles (the hair along the dog’s back), and ears that are flat against their head are things to watch for. Don’t try to hit the dog with the item, though, as this can make the dog even more aggressive. Just try to back away slowly. If the dog knocks you down, curl into a ball with your head tucked, make fists with your hands to protect your fingers, and use your hands and arms to cover your ears and neck.

Wild Animals | Rattlesnake

Rattlesnakes are predators that live in a wide array of habitats, hunting small animals such as birds and rodents.
Rattlesnakes receive their name from the rattle located at the end of their tails, which makes a loud rattling noise when vibrated that deters predators or serves as a warning to passers-by. However, rattlesnakes fall prey to hawks, weasels, king snakes, and a variety of other species. Rattlesnakes are heavily preyed upon as neonates, while they are still weak and immature. Large numbers of rattlesnakes are killed by humans. Rattlesnake populations in many areas are severely threatened by habitat destruction, poaching, and extermination campaigns.
Rattlesnakes are the leading contributor to snakebite injuries in North America. However, rattlesnakes rarely bite unless provoked or threatened; if treated promptly, the bites are seldom fatal.
Like all pit vipers, rattlesnakes have two organs that can sense radiation: their eyes, and a set of heat-sensing "pits" on their faces that enable them to locate prey and move towards it, based on the prey's thermal radiation signature. These pits have a relatively short effective range of about 1 ft, but give the rattlesnake a distinctive advantage in hunting for warm-blooded creatures at night.

Heat-sensing pits

Aside from this pair of simple eyes, rattlesnakes are able to detect thermal radiation emitted by warm-blooded organisms in their environment. Functioning optically like a pinhole camera eye, thermal radiation, in the form of infrared wavelength light, enters, passes through the opening of the pit and strikes the pit membrane located in the back wall, warming this part of the organ. Due to the extremely high density of these heat-sensitive receptors innervating this membrane, the rattlesnake can detect temperature changes of 0.003 °C or less in its immediate surroundings. Infrared cues from these receptors are transmitted to the brain by the trigeminal nerve, where they are used to create thermal maps of the snake’s surroundings. Due to the small sizes of the pit openings, typically these thermals images are low in resolution and contrast. Nevertheless, rattlesnakes superimpose visual images created from information from the eyes with these thermal images from the pit organs to more accurately visualize their surroundings in low levels of light. Research conducted recently on the molecular mechanism of this ability suggests the temperature sensitivity of these pit organs is closely linked to the activity of transient receptor potential ankyrin 1, a temperature-sensitive ion channel saturated in the pit membrane.

Skin and circulation

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Rattlesnake skin has a set of overlapping scales which cover the entire body, providing protection from a variety of threats including dehydration and physical trauma. The typical rattlesnake, genus Crotalus, has the top of its head covered with small scales, except, with a few species, a few crowded plates directly over the snout. The skin of snakes is highly sensitive to contact, tension, and pressure; they are capable of feeling pain.
An important function of the skin is the sensation of changes in air temperature, which can guide the snakes towards warm basking/shelter locations. All snakes are ectotherms. To maintain a stable body temperature, they exchange heat with their external environments. Snakes often move into open, sunny areas to absorb heat from the sun and warmed earth, a behavior known as basking. Nerves in the skin regulate the flow of blood into the veins near the surface. Rubio states, "The skin's acceptance of radiant energy, its ability to determine the temperature, and the snake's ability to move toward or away from one temperature gradient to another are among the most important behavioral actions in its daily life."
The skin of rattlesnakes is intricately patterned in a manner that camouflages them from their predators. Rattlesnakes do not generally have bright or showy colors (reds, yellows, blues, etc.), instead relying on subtle earth tones that resemble the surrounding environment.
Creases in the epidermal tissue connect the scales of rattlesnakes. When ingesting large prey, these creases can unfold, allowing the skin to expand to envelop a much greater volume. The skin appears to tightly stretch to accommodate the meal, but in reality, the skin is simply smoothing out from its creased state and is not under very high tension.

Jane Worll for Animalix

If dogs and cats had legal rights, how would that impact other animals?

People are duking it out over custody of the family companion animal in divorce proceedings. People are suing for damages when a companion animal is injured or killed. People are demanding consideration of companion animals during disaster response.
I guess that means laws giving rights to, at the very least, dogs and cats should be right around the corner, right?
Not so fast, pardner. There are plenty of adversaries to face down before you ride into that town.

Like who?

Well, the American Veterinary Medical Association, for one. To be sure, they WANT you to consider your pet a beloved family member. But they don’t want you suing the crap out of them when you believe a member of their ranks provides substandard care.
They do have a valid point. If dogs and cats had rights, the cost of veterinary care would go through the roof. Think your vet bills are high now? What would they be if the cost of malpractice insurance was tacked onto the cost? And that thing I’m doing now with using a dog medication off-label with Bubba Cat? I’m sure THAT would not be allowed to continue.

Pet stores and Puppy mill breeders are most certainly not for animals having rights. Would that impact the sale of animals? Probably. At the very least, the standards of care required for breeder animals would be strictly regulated, unlike it is now.

Research labs would not be able to conduct the testing on dogs and cats, because dogs and cats cannot provide consent.

Dog food would be more expensive as the requirements for manufacture would become more stringent. Though, to be sure, dog food is already a cut-throat business, and manufacturers are already employing strict manufacturing standards to avoid recalls that can destroy a brand.

Shock collars would most certainly go by the wayside. Say good-bye to your invisible fence!

If you think the one-upmanship of pet owners is bad now, imagine how it would be if your neighbor could report you for not bathing your dog regularly or not taking him for a walk every day. It would be kind of like child abuse investigations are now: some investigations have merit, while others are nuisance calls made to harass the one being investigated.

If dogs and cats had legal rights, how would that impact other animals?

It wouldn’t take long for courts to rule that the Great Apes should also be afforded rights. After all, they are the animals most like humans in appearance. That would impact research labs and zoos.

Animal agriculture would most certainly be impacted. The cost of meat, milk, and eggs would rise as farms would be forced to provide humane living conditions for animals used to feed humans.

Extermination practices would have to change considerably, as it would no longer be acceptable to just poison rats and mice.

As you have no doubt figured out, this is not a change that people would willingly accept in one lump sum. It’s going to take time, and a continuing change in public perception to get us there.

Are YOU still willing to fight for animals to have rights, or is the cost going to be higher than you’re willing to pay?

The cost of eggs is going to go up because of the law recently enacted in CA. Even midwestern egg farmers will have to raise their prices if they supply to California, because they will have to comply with the new regulations, that require the chicken’s cage be large enough for it to move around and flap its wings. That means fewer chickens in the same amount of space, which means fewer eggs, and higher heating costs for farmers. Of course, you could just buy eggs from your local farms, where you can see the chickens running free the way they are meant to be. The cost will be comparable.

You can always cut meat and dairy out of your diet if the cost irks you.

There should be a way to grant animals more rights in terms of quality of life without granting full “personhood”.

It is good that someone is tackling this subject. Like you say, it is large and complex. Mostly, I see it as sad.

to help animals, and more who think it is lucrative…Their prices reflect their greed in many cases.

There are faults on all sides, over breeding, shelters–(badly named if they ‘kill’), lax laws for abusers, the people who ‘have to have purebreds over mixed breeds, (those people should look at the percentage of purebred animals that end up in “shelters” and are destroyed,) the list goes on and on.

Turning things around takes so long, it sometimes feels hopeless—actually a good deal of the time.

Granting ‘personhood’–I wonder….’Personhood’ is what is responsible for the status of things now….

Thought provoking post. I think animals do have ‘rights’ or at least protection in law. I stand by the RSPCA (and other charities) in their fight for fair treatment of all animals – domestic or farmyard. And to bring prosecutions where necessary. Only by debating animal rights, will more people become aware of the issues and perceptions will change. In the meantime, it is incumbent on all animal lovers to bring wrong-doing to the attention of the authorities and social media.

The protection laws we have in place here in the UK are clearly not working so rights are needed. I don’t care how it effects puppy mills and pet shops. I would be happy to pay more for food. And vet treatment is one of those things you expect as a pet owner. I would pay whatever it took. 

However I do take your point on the off the label medicines. When one of my guinea pigs was ill, they recommended an anti-biotic which was actually for cat use but it worked exactly as they promised. 

However we already see pets as members of the family, why doesn’t...

Active Puppies in the park

Dogs are social creatures. In addition to spending time with their human family members, pups also like to socialize with other dogs. Dog parks provide the perfect venue for pooches to play and exercise with other dogs in a safe and controlled setting. However, introducing a puppy to the dog park scene might cause a pet owner some anxiety. How do you keep your puppy safe in this new environment full of other canines?

Puppies present a unique set of challenges to their owners when being introduced to dog parks. Puppies generally are more active and curious than adult canines which could lead to more conflict with other dogs; however, with caution and preparation, puppies can enjoy dog parks while learning important social interaction skills.

To start off, puppies younger than 4 months old shouldn't be brought to the dog park. They have not been fully immunized and will be susceptible to catching diseases from other dogs. If an older dog displays aggressive behavior towards him, your puppy could be traumatized during a very important stage of his social development. But once your dog is fully immunized and ready to be around new dogs, visits to the dog park will help him to develop good etiquette for healthy interaction with his fellow canines.

The key to keeping your active puppy safe at the dog park is to have a good grasp on how your dog will respond to other dogs. Before taking your puppy to the dog park, test how your dog will react to meeting a new canine friend. Introduce your puppy to a friend or neighbor's dog to gauge how he'll react.Next, we'll take a look at some more useful tips for keeping your romping bundle of fur safe once he gets to the dog park.
Once you've prepped your dog to enter the dog park, start off in a cautious manner. Evenings during the week, holidays, and weekends tend to be busy times for dog parks, so it's best to introduce your dog to the park when there's not a big canine crowd. Walk your dog before you take him to the dog park so that he's not too wound up with energy. Keep your first visit short so as not to overwhelm your puppy. Start out with a 15-minute visit, and slowly increase the length of your stay.

Once you've entered the unleashed area of the dog park, be sure to let your dog off his leash.

Mixing unleashed and leashed dogs can create a hostile environment. Leashed dogs and their owners can display body language that might be perceived by unleashed dogs as threatening, causing the unleashed dogs to act in an aggressive manner. Also, don't bring treats or toys to the dog park. Rewards and snacks might create jealousy and aggression between puppies.
Once your puppy is acclimated to the dog park scene, you still have to be vigilant about supervising him. Watch him closely when he's interacting with other dogs; keep an eye on both his body language and the body language of other canines. If he starts to become fearful or aggressive, it's time to leave the park. But with a little forethought and preparation, an active puppy will have a safe and rewarding dog park experience.

How to raise a dog friendly puppy

There's a short period in every puppy's development, from very early puppyhood to three or four months of age, when his experiences have a big effect on his entire approach to life. If he has lots of positive encounters with other dogs during that developmental window, he's far more likely to grow up to be dog-friendly. If he doesn't, he can become fearful and aggressive.

An adult dog's personality is far less malleable than a puppy's, but exposure to other dogs can still improve his social skills. Just move slowly and cautiously, and if you see signs of aggression or timidity, get help from a professional trainer right away.
This is easy, since other dogs, starting with your puppy's mother and littermates, do most of the work.
Young puppies teach each other how to act around other dogs, mainly by practicing how to show and read the signs of submission and dominance. Without this lesson in canine etiquette, a dog may attack another dog who's trying to tell him, "I give up--you're the boss!" Or he won't know how to defuse a dominant dog's aggression by signaling his submission. Either way, you're likely to wind up with expensive vet bills.

The solution is simple: Give your puppy plenty of chances to practice his canine etiquette.

Bring home your puppy at the right age. Don't buy or adopt a puppy who was taken away from his mom and littermates before eight weeks of age. Any earlier, and your pup won't have had enough chances to practice his canine manners with them.

Set up playdates. When you bring your new pup home, invite your friends to bring their healthy, vaccinated dogs over to play. To make sure your pup doesn't get intimidated, start with mellow, well-behaved dogs.


Start him in school. As soon as possible, sign up for puppy kindergarten classes that allow the pups plenty of time for off-leash play.

Feed his social life. When your puppy grows up, take him to the dog park, invite friends' dogs over to play, and keep exposing your dog to other canines. Even if your dog had a hopping canine social life during puppyhood, he needs regular exposure to other dogs throughout his adulthood or he risks becoming less friendly over time.

Bottom line: No matter what the breed or bloodline, every dog should get regular playtime with canine pals to be friendly and safe around other dogs. This is especially important before the age of three or four months, when a pup's experiences can shape his personality as an adult.

How to Leash Train Your Active Puppy

If there's one thing you need to know about puppies, it's that they're unpredictable. Some may take to leash-walking well, others, not so much. So what are you to do if your puppy falls into the latter category? We've got some tips to help you out!


Choose the Right Leash and Collar for Your Puppy

This might seem obvious, but with so many collar and leash options out there, it may be confusing which to choose. Most professionals suggest getting a light weight collar and leash so the addition doesn't seem too imposing to your puppy. Once he or she gets used to the collar, you can move onto a different kind in the future once you understand your dog's needs better.

Help Your Puppy Become Accustomed to the Collar

Like most kinds of training, you want to make sure your puppy feels safe and secure while you're helping him get used to his collar and walking on a leash. Since simply adding a collar might result in a temper tantrum or cause your pup to become fearful or nervous, try slipping it on at a time when there are other distractions to occupy your puppy's mind. Try putting it on when you're interacting with him at home, or taking him out into the yard with you, or feeding him. Associating the collar and leash with food will give positive reinforcement to your pup, making it less stressful for both of you. If your puppy scratches at the collar, try to get his attention to distract him from the new addition around his neck. If that fails, bringing out a favorite toy should help.

Seems pretty simple right? You'd be surprised. Often a dog will tend to run around like crazy once he feels some tension on the end of the leash. To avoid this, attach the leash and let him run around while it drags on the ground. Obviously only try this in an area where you can supervise your pup to make sure he doesn't run off and to avoid any entanglements. Ideally, you should try this when there is another dog around so your pup can play while wearing the leash. If this isn't possible, simply play with your dog or go through a fun training routine, rewarding him with a treat. While doing this, occasionally pick up leash and call him to you. The trick is to encourage him while gently picking up the leash, again rewarding him with small treats.

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If your dog naturally walks at heel, that's great - but don't expect it - and don't try to get him to. Yanking on the leash won't help the situation, so think of getting him to walk as a gradual process. You may need to stand still or kneel down while he figures out what's going on - that way your pup realizes that he won't be able to go anywhere unless it is by your side. Some dogs may decide to sit down and not move. If this happens, call to your pup and offer him a reward when he comes over. Never yank him toward you. Once he comes over of his own will, offer him a treat and continue walking with him by your side.

Final Tips

Leash-training your puppy may be frustrating, but it's important to take your time and remain calm. Your puppy may not get leash-training on his first try, so it's important to take it slow and guage how quick your little one is able to learn. Small steps will soon lead to big gains - and soon enough your puppy will be walking nicely on his leash with you.

Coprophagia Dogs Eating Feces Part 2

Enzyme deficiency

In the wild, the canine diet works in harmony with its surroundings. When the canine eats prey, it eats whole prey, including the guts, which would naturally contain the appropriate amount of digestive enzymes the dog needs. This isn’t the case with the kibble-heavy, highly processed diet the modern urban dog subsists on. Digestive enzymes are a key component of your dog’s digestive process, and without them, they can’t properly absorb their food. Basically they will poop out nutrients undigested. Dogs do create enzymes in their body, but they are not enough to complete the digestive process effectively – so they need to get some of these enzymes from their food. If there is a deficiency, not only may they then develop ailments, but they may also start to crave that feces they just rid themselves of – because, well, it’s full of nutrients.

Exocrine pancreatic insufficiency (EPI)

Also known as pancreatic insufficiency, this is a condition where your dog is creating little or no digestive enzymes in the pancreas. Without added enzymes, a dog will basically slowly starve, with symptoms including weight loss, diarrhea, and yes, stool eating, because he’s trying to get those much-needed nutrients.

Parasites

Intestinal parasites that absorb the nutrients your dog should be getting from his food could be another reason your dog is craving stool.

Conditions causing increased appetite

Certain diseases like diabetes and thyroid issues, as well as steroids, can make dogs ravenous enough to eat stool (honestly many dogs don’t need much of a push).

Other deficiencies

According to Roger DeHaan, DVM, a hydrochloric acid deficiency that may happen with age or from a bad diet can also lead to poor digestion that can in turn lead to a search for nutrients in stool. Hydrochloric acid breaks down protein as part of the digestive process. Joseph Demers, DVM, says a trace mineral deficiency can also lead to stool eating, as well as eating less digestible things like plastic. (The Veterinarians’ Guide to Natural Remedies for Dogs by Martin Zucker)

Malabsorption

Any other condition that may lead to poor nutrient absorption can in turn lead to stool eating. Not only may your dog want to eat his stool, because of those tasty undigested nutrients, but he may find your cat’s stool even more delightful. It’s important to consider whose stool he is seeking, because it may also be an indicator of a deficiency or illness in that pet.

Underfeeding 

Make sure you are feeding your dog enough food at regular times. If your dog is losing weight on a fresh, whole diet, then feed him more! And keep to a schedule, a hungry dog will look for other food sources you may not like.

Why Do Dogs Eat Poop? There Are Behavioral Reasons

Now that we’ve covered some of the potential medical causes for stool eating, we’ll move into possible behavioral reasons. If his health checks out, consider the following:

Cleanliness  

There’s one key time that a dog will eat stool and it’s very much in the natural order of things. This is when a female dog cleans up after her puppies to keep the nest clean. This drive for cleanliness could also account for other dogs that “clean up” stool.
Puppies
As puppies start to get curious about their surroundings, they may decide to take a nibble out of some feces as part of the exploration process. Puppies usually grow out of this.
Scavengers
Dogs are natural scavengers that are attracted to scent. They are not repulsed by feces as are us humans. And if the opportunity presents itself, they might just take it.

Boredom

If your dog is home alone all day with not much to do, and there happens to be some poop within his reach, he may just find a new way to entertain himself and get a little treat in the process.

Attention seeking

Our dogs love us and want our attention. If they’re feeling a little ignored, even getting in trouble will please them, because, well, they have our attention. So sneaking out into the yard and plopping down for a mid-afternoon fecal snack is a double whammy because he gets a treat AND our attention.

Stress  

Dogs who are stressed (is he in a kennel all day?) may relieve stress by eating poop.

Puppy mills

According to Karen Becker, DVM, puppy mill dogs may be at risk to develop this behavior because of the conditions they are raised in: lack of food and long-term crating, for instance.

Punishment

Also, according to Dr Becker, dogs who were punished for pooping in the house may start to think poop is bad and eat the evidence, so to speak.

Doggie see, doggie eat doo-doo 

A younger dog can learn this behavior from an older dog that has acquired a taste for dung. So make sure and nip the problem in the bud!

OK, so there are plenty of reasons your dog may be an avid connoisseur of poop. But now the real question, how exactly do you nip the problem in the bud?
Quick List
First and foremost, keep things clean. Pick up after your dog immediately. Don’t give him the opportunity to wonder how that fresh, enticing piece of dung tastes.If you have other pets, clean up after them right away, too – especially litter boxes. In other words keep temptation at bay by keeping the stool away.
Keep your dog mentally and physically engaged. Make sure you give him regular playtime like fetch and if he’s particularly energetic or a working dog, try something like agility or some other brain-stimulating training. And make sure that he has plenty of toys available to help keep him entertained.
Make sure he’s eating a raw, whole, varied diet of quality proteins. Raw food has those digestive enzymes your dog needs to help him process his meals. If you’re feeding cooked food only, you’ll definitely want to add digestive enzymes. Raw, green tripe is particularly high in digestive enzymes, as well as probiotics.
For a trace mineral deficiency, you can add some kelp, according to Dr Demers. And for a hydrochloric acid deficiency, try some apple cider vinegar (1 tsp per 25 pounds in food), which may help mimic the missing acid and help the body compensate for the deficiency, according to Dr DeHaan.
Also, check your dog’s stool regularly for parasites.
Avoid punishment, because according to a study at University of California, Davis involving 1,500 Internet surveys of pet owners, it is ineffective. The study also found food additives used to stop poop eating are only effective up to 2 percent of the time. Positive reinforcement training wasn’t very effective either.
Keep on top of the digestion situation of all the pets in your household. Remember, your dog may be attracted to another dog’s or cat’s stool, not only because he is deficient in something, but because they are not absorbing their food and their poops are extra enticing.

Clearly, the gross, but seemingly simple act of stool eating may be somewhat complicated. If your dog starts nibbling on poop, look for medical causes and if he’s clear of issues, then make sure to keep things clean, your dog engaged and well fed. Be patient and be consistent.